Pick of the crop
A local butcher, Matthew Bramley, later bought the cottage and garden. His apple tarts must have caused something of a stir because local nurseryman Henry Merryweather came looking for a cutting from the tree. Matthew agreed, on condition the slow-growing apple would bear his name – hence the name Bramley Seedling, today beloved of home cooks and chefs alike.
Recently, I travelled all the way to Ulster to celebrate with the Bramley Apple Growers, who had come together to put on a big celebratory bash during apple blossom season. You can’t imagine how lovely it was to drive through the Armagh countryside, when the orchards were in full bloom, covered with pink and white blossom. There were beautiful old trees with gnarled branches, carefully pruned to allow light into the centre and still producing apples after 40 years, but also newly planted orchards to meet the upcoming demands.
Apples have been cultivated in Armagh for more than 3,000 years, so the Bramley is just a blow-in in comparison to some of the others. Many of the orchardists are third- or fourth-generation growers. So the knowledge and growing skills have been passed from generation to generation.
In recent years, with help and guidance from Loughgall Research Station, apple growers have tweaked the Bramley to ensure it keeps its shape during cooking for the bakery trade. I was nostalgic for the old Bramley, which dissolved into a fluff when stewed, or oozed out of its skin when it was roasted or baked. For those of you who are lucky enough to still have these old trees in your garden, prune them carefully to preserve them for posterity.
Meanwhile, one can buy the Armagh Bramley virtually all year round, thanks to the efforts of the Armagh Bramley growers, who store them carefully and sell them proudly through the length and breadth of Ireland. The growers have helped to highlight the need to protect apple orchards, which can only be done by educating young people.
Pamela Black and I did several cookery demonstrations with Bramley Seedlings in every recipe. The weather was mostly horrendous, yet people poured in to support the Apple Blossom Festival. Nearly 7,000 people attended the event, which had attractions for growers, suppliers and retailers, and there was also a strong presence from the Armagh Beekeepers’ Association to highlight the bee crisis.
Bees are dying all over the world; some of the varied causes that have been cited are pesticides (particularly those containing the active ingredient Imidacloprid), broadband (the signals are thought to disorientate bees) and genetically modified plants. The jury is still out.
Here are some simple and delicious recipes using Bramley Seedling apples.
Makes 6-7 pots
6lb (2.7kg) crab apples or Bramley Seedlings
4.3pt (2.7 litres) water
6-8 large sweet geranium leaves (Pelargonium Graveolens)
2 lemons, unwaxed organic
Sugar
Wash the apples and cut into quarters, no need to peel or core. Windfalls may be used, but make sure to cut out any bruised parts. Put the apples in a large saucepan with the water, geranium leaves and the thinly pared rind of the lemons. Cook until reduced to a pulp, approx 30 minutes.
Turn the pulp into a jelly bag and allow to drip until all the juice has been extracted – usually overnight. Measure the juice into a preserving pan.
Warm the sugar in a moderate oven 180°C/350°F/ gas mark 4 for about 10 minutes; allow 1lb (450g) sugar to each pint (600ml/2½ cups) of juice.
Squeeze the lemons, strain the juice and add to the preserving pan, add a few more geranium leaves if the flavour is still very mild. Bring to the boil and add the sugar. Stir over a gentle heat until the sugar is dissolved. Increase the heat and boil rapidly without stirring for about 8-10 minutes. Remove the geranium leaves. Skim, test and then pour the jelly into sterilised jars, put a sweet geranium leaf in each jar. Cover and seal immediately.
THE pastry is made by the creaming method, so people who are convinced they suffer from “hot hands” don’t have to worry about rubbing in the butter.
Serves 8-12
8oz (225g) butter
2oz (50g) castor sugar
2 eggs, preferably free range
12oz (300g) white flour, preferably unbleached
1½lb (675g) Bramley Seedling cooking apples
5oz (150g) sugar
2-3 cloves
Egg wash – made with one beaten egg and a dash of milk
Castor sugar, for sprinkling
Softly whipped cream
Barbados sugar
You will need a tin, 7in (18cm) x 12in (30.5cm) x 1in (2.5cm) deep
First, preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. To make the pastry, cream the butter and sugar together by hand or in a food mixer (no need to over-cream). Add the eggs and beat for several minutes. Reduce speed and mix in the flour. Turn out onto a piece of floured greaseproof paper, flatten into a round wrap and chill. This pastry needs to be chilled for at least 2 hours, otherwise it is difficult to handle.
To make the tart
Roll out the pastry 1/8in (3mm) thick approx, and use about two-thirds of it to line a suitable tin. Peel, quarter and dice the apples into the tart, sprinkle with sugar and add the cloves.
Cover with a lid of pastry, seal edges, decorate with pastry leaves, egg wash and bake until the apples are tender, approx 45 minutes to 1 hour.
When cooked, cut into squares, sprinkle lightly with castor sugar and serve with softly whipped cream and Barbados sugar.
Serves 4
4 large Bramley Seedling apples 50g (2oz) butter 50g (2oz) caster sugar Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 2 tbsp golden sultanas 150ml (¼pint) water (optional) 150ml (¼pint) cream 1–2 tbsp amaretto
First preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Core the apples and score the skin across the equator.
Mix the butter with the caster sugar, lemon zest and sultanas. Spoon the butter mixture into the apples.
Stand the apples in an ovenproof baking dish and add the water.
Roast for 30–45 minutes. The apples should be just beginning to burst – this is vital so hold your nerve, they should look fat and squishy. Meanwhile, whip the cream and add amaretto to taste. Serve the apples straight from the oven with the amaretto cream and dust with icing sugar.
Variations
Stuff the apples with homemade mincemeat instead of the sultana mixture nStuff the apples with cinnamon sugar nRoast the apples unadorned
Follow recipe as above, but omit fruit &and zest, and serve with freshly whipped cream and soft brown sugar. Divine.
Serves 10
My daughter-in-law Penny gave this recipe to my other daughter-in-law Rachel and I am so happy she did.
2 large cooking apples, such as Bramleys
2oz (50g) dark brown sugar
6oz (175g) butter
6oz (175g) light brown sugar
6oz (175g) self-raising flour
4 eggs
4oz (110g) butter
4oz (110g) light brown sugar
1 tbsp lemon juice
You will also need a 10in (25cm) sauté pan or a spring-form tin.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Butter the sides of the tin and line the base with a disc of greaseproof paper.
Peel and cut the cooking apples into eights and arrange in a single layer in the tin (this will be the top of the cake when it’s cooked) and turned out. Sprinkle over the dark brown sugar.
Put all the cake batter ingredients into a food processor and whiz to combine. Pour it over the apples and sugar in the cake tin.
Cook in the preheated oven for 40-45 minutes, or until the cake is spongy in the centre. Wait for it to cool for 2 minutes before turning out.
Next make the fudge sauce. Combine and melt the butter, sugar and lemon juice. Stir and pour over the cake when it’s cool.
Taken from Rachel’s Favourite Food by Rachel Allen
Serves 4-6
Many butchers will prepare a rack of lamb for you.
In season:
2 racks of spring lamb (6 cutlets each)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Accompaniment: Fresh mint chutney
Garnish: Sprigs of fresh mint
Score the fat. Refrigerate until needed. Preheat the oven to 220°C\425°F\gas mark 7. Sprinkle the racks of lamb with salt and freshly ground pepper. Roast fat side upwards for 25-30 minutes, depending on the age of lamb and degree of doneness required. When cooked, remove lamb to a warm serving dish. Turn off the oven and allow the lamb to rest for 5-10 minutes before carving to allow the juices to redistribute evenly through the meat.
Carve the lamb and serve 2-3 cutlets per person, depending on size. Serve with fresh mint chutney.
Foolproof food
Fresh Mint Chutney:
This fresh chutney is often served in India with curries. It is good with grilled fish or roast lamb instead of mint sauce. Surprisingly, even though it is uncooked, this chutney will keep for several days in a covered jar or plastic container in the refrigerator.
1 large cooking apple (we use Grenadier or Bramley Seedling), peeled and cored
A large handful of fresh mint leaves, spearmint or Bowles mint
50g (2oz) onions
20-50g (1-2oz) castor sugar (depending on tartness of apple)
Salt and cayenne pepper, to taste
Whizz all the ingredients in a food processor, season with salt and a little cayenne pepper.
Gluten-free Food Festival at O’Connells in Ballsbridge: Rosemary Kearney, co-author with Darina Allen of Healthy Gluten-free Eating, will join the chefs at the Ballsbridge Hotel, Dublin, to create a gluten-free menu for lunch and dinner on Saturday, May 23, and lunch on Sunday, May 24. To book, call 01-6655940, www.oconnellsballsbridge.com.
Laying Hens: David Tyrell from Midleton, Co Cork, has nine different breeds of laying hens for sale, including Aracuanas and Cuckoo Marans (the only eggs you won’t catch salmonella from because the eggshell does not have pores like other eggs). You can buy them as day-old chicks right up to point of lay. Why not pick up a hen house at the same time? He has hen arcs that house six to eight hens. Call 087-0655646 or email tyrelldavid@gmail.com.
Cherry and Sultana Flapjacks from Flahavan’s: Look out for Flahavan’s Cherry and Sultana Flap Jacks. I tasted one the other day and they are totally delicious.
Food and Health from Garden, Hedgerow and Seashore: In another talk organised by the Cork Free Choice Consumer Group, medical herbalist Kelli O’Halloran will teach us how to identify and use the wealth of remedies and food all around us. Thursday, May 28, 7.30pm at the Crawford Gallery Café, Cork, €6 including tea, coffee and tastings.
SAVE and freeze the water you have cooked your vegetables in to add to stocks and soups later – it contains lots of vitamins and minerals.
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