Recipe for Cauliflower Cheese

I had rather despaired of cauliflower until I grew them myself. However I have failed to find the name of the old variety which we ate as children.

Cauliflower varieties seem to have suffered more from the point of view of flavour than most other vegetables. The leaves have more flavour than the curd so make sure not to discard them. Even a mediocre cauliflower can be made to taste delicious in a bubbling cheese sauce.

Serves 6-8

1 medium-sized cauliflower with green leaves

Salt

Mornay Sauce:

1 pint (600ml) béchamel sauce

4ozs (110g) grated cheese, eg cheddar or a mixture of gruyere, parmesan and cheddar

½ teasp Dijon mustard

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1oz (30g) grated mature

Cheddar cheese for top

Chopped parsley

Béchamel Sauce:

½ pint (300ml) milk

A few slices of carrot

A few slices of onion

A small sprig of thyme

A small sprig of parsley

3 peppercorns

1½ozs (45g) roux

Salt and freshly ground pepper

This is a marvellous quick way of making Béchamel Sauce if you already have roux made. Put the cold milk into a saucepan with the carrot, onion, peppercorns, thyme and parsley. Bring to the boil, simmer for 4-5 minutes, and remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 10 minutes. Strain out the vegetables, bring the milk back to the boil and thicken with roux to a light coating consistency. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper, taste and correct the seasoning if necessary.

Roux:

4ozs (110g) butter

4ozs (110g) flour

Melt the butter and cook the flour in it for two minutes on a low heat, stirring occasionally. Use as required. Roux can be stored in a cool place and used as required or it can be made up on the spot if preferred. It will keep at least a fortnight in a refrigerator.

Remove the outer leaves and wash both the cauliflower and the leaves well. Put not more than 1inch (2.5cm) water in a saucepan just large enough to take the cauliflower; add a little salt. Chop the leaves into small pieces and either leave the cauliflower whole or cut in quarters; place the cauliflower on top of the green leaves in the saucepan, cover and simmer until cooked, 15 minutes approx. Test by piercing the stalk with a knife: there should be just a little resistance. Remove the cauliflower and leaves to an ovenproof serving dish.

Meanwhile, make the mornay sauce. Make the béchamel sauce in the usual way and at the end add 4ozs (110g/1 cup) grated cheese and a little mustard. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper, taste and correct the seasoning if necessary. Spoon the sauce over the cauliflower and sprinkle with more grated cheese. The dish may be prepared ahead to this point.

Put into a hot oven, 230C/450F/regulo 8, or under the grill to brown. If the Cauliflower Cheese is allowed to get completely cold, it will take 20-25 minutes to reheat in a moderate oven, 180C/350F/regulo 4.

Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

Note: If the cauliflower is left whole, cut a deep cross in the stalk.