Pickled Belly Pork

Pickling (or sousing) pork went hand in hand with pig killing and for centuries it was one of the staple meats in every country household.

Autumn was the time for killing the pig. The sides and hams were salted down to provide supplies of bacon through the winter. Most of the other bits — trotters, ears, cheeks and so on — were put into a tub of brine and soused. Although brine was the most common ‘sousing drink’, some better-off households also used verjuice and wine or ale with spices. The pork was ready for Christmas, when it was part of good ‘husbandly fare’.

Today’s pickled pork is very different, but it is one of the easiest and most successful kinds of pickled meats you can produce at home. Any cut can be used, but belly is one of the best bets. Do the pickling in an earthenware crock, a plastic bucket or pedal bin. It is important to clean this thoroughly with hot water and washing soda before starting.

1.5kg (3lb) piece of belly pork

350g (12oz) sea salt

1.5ml spoon (1 tsp) black peppercorns

1.5ml spoon (1 tsp) allspice berries

100g (4oz) light brown sugar (optional)

Clean all our equipment thoroughly before you start — including wooden spoons, tongs for turning the meat, and so on. Make the brine by heating the salt with 2.25 litres (4 pints) water in a large pan. Add the peppercorns and allspice tied in a muslin bag, if you want a sweet-pickled pork, also add the sugar to the brine. Boil for 10 minutes, skimming off any froth that forms, then let the brine cool down and strain it through muslin into the pickling crock or bucket.

When the brine is completely cold, add the meat and keep it submerged with a piece of cleaned and boiled wood. Stir the brine occasionally with a wooden spoon and turn the meat using tongs. The pork will be ready after 3 days in brine: larger pieces will take longer, but the pickling time depends more on the thickness of the meat than its actual weight.

Remove the meat with tongs, drain well and cook.

If you want a very mild flavour, soak the meat in cold water for 30 minutes before cooking.

Excellent served with broad beans or a puree of split peas.