Irish designers pay homage to home at London Fashion Week

Literally flying the flag for Ireland at London Fashion Week, Robyn Lynch gave us 50 shades of green. Picture: Charlie Wheeler

Bringing Dublin to London’s West End, Paul Costelloe kicked off another London Fashion week. Taking inspiration from James Joyce’s Ulysses, models stepped out in front of a very familiar Irish backdrop with the Poolbeg chimneys acting as their guiding light.

Paul Costelloe's collection went back to his roots.

Costelloe brought his collection back to where it all started, to the Dublin he loves while celebrating Irish craftsmanship. Dramatic silver gowns woven by William Clarke of Derry were emblazoned with Georgian Doors and Molly Bloom references, while powerful tailoring in Magee of Donegal tweed gave a nod to the gothic. Topped off by a top hat, he firmly removed the twee from tweed.

In keeping with postcards from home, designer Sinéad O’Dwyer took inspiration from her late grandmother, Rita O’Dwyer. The result was a nostalgic approach to contemporary design. A midnight blue trench coat fitting for a woman who lived through World War 2 to a hint of 1940s Hollywood glamour in crossover halter neck dresses.

Sinéad O’Dwyer took a nostalgic approach to contemporary design at London Fashion Week. Picture: Jessica Mahaffey

There was of course her signature-latticed knitwear that illuminated the body in electrifying hues. Once again O’Dwyer’s show was a lesson in diversity. Not that it’s contrived, this is just how O’Dwyer designs. She makes clothes for everyone because, after all, we all wear clothes. Aptly named Dúil, the Irish word for desire, this was a collection that is desirable to all.

Taking the harvest festival of Lughnasadh as inspiration, Simone Rocha gave us an evocative show this season. Her ethereal designs of eccentric femininity had a haunting feel to them.

It’s no wonder when you look to the rituals that inspired the collection. The blood daubed on children's foreheads for protection from otherworldly beings and bad luck.

Simone Rocha's signature pearl adornments and ruffles were mixed with earthy elements of stuffed roses, trapped lace and straw at London Fashion Week. Picture: Tristan Fewings/BFC/Getty Images

Pearl-encrusted nude slip dresses gave the illusion of innocence while the red satin ribbons represented something more sinister. This introspection into Ireland’s relationship with pagan traditions and rituals gave a gritty edge to Rocha’s designs.

While her signature pearl adornments and ruffles remain, they were mixed with earthy elements of stuffed roses, trapped lace and straw. Trimmings of blood red brought these twisted tales to light amongst the beauty of Rocha’s designs.

Simone Rocha's London Fashion Week showing had a haunting feel. Picture: Ben Broomfield

Literally flying the flag for Ireland, Robyn Lynch gave us 50 shades of green. Following from her last collection where we saw an innovative reinterpretation of a GAA jersey, Lynch gave a show that had Irish pride written all over it. From shamrocks to leprechauns to Aran sweaters, every Irish cliché was covered and yet this menswear collection didn’t feel cliché.

Lynch has the ability as a designer to bring the cool to kitsch, making popping green Aran sweaters to comic-book shamrock motifs street-style ready.

Inspired by the ancient landscape of Ireland, Standing Ground designer Michael Stewart delivered a breath-taking show at this year’s London Fashion week. Using dead stock and vintage fabrics, Stewart brought the past back to life in an array of full-length body-loving dresses. With Dolmens and the St Brigid’s cross as part of his mood board, Stewart successfully brought the ancient into the future in his intricate designs.