I flew from Cork to Prague for a few days — here's why the city surprised me

Prague’s historic centre is a triumph, but it is modern Prague that most surprises Mary Corcoran

Prague was not the city that people had told me about, and certainly not what I expected before I got here.

Sat, 18 Jul, 2026 - 01:00

Mary Corcoran

Lilith's towering and imposing presence stopped me in my tracks.

Before I had headed off to Prague, I had done a bit of research on what to expect. I knew the city had been a popular spot for stags and hens over the years, and that the Christmas markets were a big draw. Family and friends shared their recommendations on what to see and do. In fact, the more people I spoke with, the more I started to think I might be the only person who hadn’t been to the capital of the Czech Republic or Czechia. As I set out from Cork Airport on a bright and sunny Monday afternoon, I felt fairly confident about what I could expect from Prague. It wasn’t long before I was reminded that expectations and reality don’t always match.

Prague is a city of two halves; old and new, sitting side by side.

Its historic centre was inscribed as a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1992. Walking through its winding streets feels a little like walking through a museum — history is all around. The city largely escaped major damage in the Second World War, and so much of its medieval core has been preserved. Franz Kafka was born here, and this is somewhere he would have met Albert Einstein during his time here. This is a country that was under communist rule from 1948 to 1989.

Gothic architecture contrasts with Romanesque styles, dramatic Baroque gems, cubist constructs, and modernist buildings. This is perhaps most evident when standing in the heart of the centre at the Old Town Square where it feels like your attention is pulled from one building to the next; the Church of St Nicholas, the Tyn Cathedral, the House at the Stone Bell, Kinsky Palace.

I join hundreds of tourists on a wet Tuesday morning at 10.50am just off this square, at the Gothic Old Town Hall. The building has had a towering presence in the city since the 14th century, and it is here that you’ll find one of Prague’s most iconic sites; the Prague Astronomical Clock. The clock was a later addition to the hall, and for 600 years it has informed denizens of the time, and even the week, month, and year. It can even tell people what sign of the zodiac the sun is in.

This isn’t the reason so many people have gathered here, umbrellas in hand, this morning. Silence descends in the vicinity as it nears 11am and, on the hour, two small windows open on the tower, revealing a mechanical procession of the 12 apostles greeting the city that lasts for 45 seconds. Applause rises from the crowd as it reaches its conclusion. In an age of AI, when life feels like a constant rush, there was something collectively breathtaking and humbling about the spectacle before our eyes.

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From here, I make my way to the famed Charles Bridge, constructed under King Charles IV. I’m told that, at the height of the tourism season, this landmark gets so busy that locals often avoid it, and will go out of their way to traverse the Vltava across one of the city’s other bridges. Just before I reach my destination, I come to a museum bearing the digits ‘135797531’. A palindrome. Legend has it that construction of the bridge commenced in 1357 at 5.31 on July 9 as it was felt that the numerical sequence would somehow fortify the landmark.

One of the benefits of seeing Prague in the rain is that on the morning I arrive at the bridge, it is sparsely populated. Dozens of statues are dotted across the bridge. There’s one in particular that I want to see. The statue of St John of Nepomuk stands out, polished to a shine by tourists who rub it in the hopes of good fortune and to ensure a return trip to Prague. Would I even have visited the city if I didn’t follow suit?

The Angel Of Prague overlooks the city's fairytale skyline

A trip along the majestic Vltava in a glass-roofed boat gives welcome reprieve from the showers, and offers a fresh view on the city. We pass the Dancing House, the National Theatre, and the Rudolfinum, while grazing local food and Czech wine.

In the afternoon, I head to Prague Castle — the largest castle complex in the world. Within this complex is the impressive St Vitus Cathedral, multiple gardens, courtyards, and palaces. From one, I spot what I think is a familiar sight. Is that the Eiffel Tower? But it’s Prague I’m visiting, not Paris. The tower, in a prominent position overlooking the city, is actually the Petrin Tower, and was built in 1891. Inspired by the Eiffel Tower, it offers panoramic views over the city. It would be easy to spend the day just walking around the gardens, but instead I make my way back into the city, through meandering lanes and cobblestone streets.

Exploring Prague on foot is a wonderful way to see the city and, after a day of sightseeing, I feel like I have a pretty good sense of the place. I think about the sights I’ll come back to see during my time here; the shops with their wooden marionettes on display that will make for nice gifts to bring home, the impressive churches and museums. I think to myself that this is pretty close to what I had expected of my visit to Prague… but better.

What I hadn’t expected though was that modern Prague would shake things up.

Standing below Lilith — a 24m high statue of a woman made by David Cerny — who looks to be holding up the building before her, I find myself wondering if I’m still in the same city. The statue, weighing in at 35 tonnes, dominates the skyline in the cool Karlin district. It is undeniably bold. The permanent statue was put in place in 2022 and takes her name from the mythological Lilith associated with rebellion and independence.

The surrounding streets are filled with stylish cafes and creative hubs, as well as several other eye-catching sculptures. There is a different feeling to this side of the city — these spaces feel younger and dare I say it, cooler.

Coffee and chill out time in the Vnitroblock which used to house a factory.

Nearby New Town and Holesovice are equally vibrant — the latter being home to the largest indoor marketplace in Prague with more than 80 vendors in one hall. Former industrial spaces have been reinvented. Some have been re-purposed as modern restaurants, with lots of fusion foods on offer. Outdoor theatre events and gigs are held in reimagined spaces. A leisurely coffee at the Vnitroblock — a former factory which now houses a café, trendy meeting spaces, and pop-ups — is in complete contrast to my foodie experience on the boat down the Vltava. My intentions of returning to the medieval centre for some shopping go out the window as I finish the day in the sunshine sitting in a very hip courtyard, where local and tourists alike are indulging in small bites and Czech beers.

I had been blown away by Prague’s historic centre and the stories of each building and street, but it was modern Prague, and its fusion of old and new that surprised me the most. It left me thinking about how cities evolve, and about the unique experiences we can all have in one place. This was not the city that people had told me about, and certainly not what I expected before I got here. It was far better than that.

Escape Notes

Getting there

Aer Lingus flies direct to Prague from Cork and Dublin

Getting around

Prague has a well-linked public transport system which includes the metric, trams and buses. pid.cz/en

Where to stay

The Julius Prague (short walk from the historic centre and fantastic suites)

thejulius.eu

Where to eat

Restaurant 420

420restaurant.cz/en

Cafe Imperial