Mickael Viljanen: 'The top restaurants in America are not worth the money'

As chef patron of the two Michelin-starred Chapter One, Mickael Viljanen's career has taken him across continents, from Nordic lakes to Asian megacities and remote Indian Ocean islands
Mickael Viljanen: 'The top restaurants in America are not worth the money'

Mickael Viljanen

As chef patron of the two Michelin-starred Chapter One, Mickael Viljanen is one of Ireland’s most respected culinary voices. Born in Stockholm and raised in Finland, Ireland has been home for the last 25 years. 

His career has taken him across continents, from Nordic lakes to Asian megacities and remote Indian Ocean islands, with travel shaping not just how he cooks, but how he experiences the world.

Favourite childhood holiday memory

Growing up in Finland, we didn’t really travel abroad much. I remember only one foreign holiday when I was a kid, and that was to what was then Yugoslavia, in 1991, just before the civil war. We went to Dubrovnik, and I would have been about 10 or 11 at the time. I still remember it clearly because we came back just a few months before everything changed there.

Other than that, our holidays were mostly around Finland. We travelled a lot by campervan, visiting lakes, heading up to Lapland and exploring different parts of the country. Those were our summers. We also went back and forth to Sweden occasionally, as I was born in Stockholm and my mum lived there for years.

Most memorable trip

There have been many memorable trips for different reasons, but the first time I went to the Maldives really stands out. That was during covid, around March 2021, and we were there working at Soneva, which has two islands in the Maldives. I’ll never forget it.

Soneva - Most memorable trip
Soneva - Most memorable trip

You land in Malé, then take a seaplane out into the middle of the Indian Ocean on a floating deck, and a speedboat brings you to the island. The first time you see it, it’s absolutely astounding how beautiful it is — like something from a David Attenborough documentary.

We were there doing a few dinners, and the produce was unbelievable. They can fly in anything they want, but at the same time, they fish locally every day. Boats come back with fresh seafood, and you’re working with incredible ingredients in the most extraordinary setting. It’s also one of those places where you take your shoes off when you arrive and you don’t see them again for two weeks. You’re barefoot the whole time.

Most surprising destination

Hong Kong surprised me the most. I’ve been there a few times, and every visit feels different. It’s such a mix of everything. You have old buildings with bamboo scaffolding beside modern skyscrapers — the biggest mismatch of everything. It’s one of those cities where you don’t really get a handle on it in one visit. You need to go back again and again. Every time you go, there’s something new.

Hong Kong - Most surprising destination
Hong Kong - Most surprising destination

Favourite city in the world

New York. I’ve been there many times, and even though it’s become incredibly expensive, it’s still one of those places I’ll happily go to anytime. Every time you visit, it changes.

New York - Favourite city in the world
New York - Favourite city in the world

You might know the areas you like, but there’s always something new happening. If you ever get bored of New York, you might as well stop travelling.

Favourite hotel

It’s hard to pick just one, but Soneva Fushi in the Maldives is extraordinary, particularly the overwater villas. Everything there is built with sustainability in mind.

Soneva Fushi - Favourite hotel
Soneva Fushi - Favourite hotel

The Rosewood in Hong Kong is another standout, if you want to stay in a special hotel in a special place.

Closer to home, Adare Manor is as world-class as anything you’ll find in Ireland or the UK. The grounds, the service — it’s a beautiful place.

Most memorable food experience

One dish that really stands out was in Hong Kong, at a Chinese restaurant called Moon Bay. They’re famous for their suckling pig, cooked in a wood-fired oven with Chinese wine. The skin was like glass, and the meat just melted. I was there with my kids at the time, and I’ll never forget that meal.

Suckling pig in Hong Kong - Most memorable food experience
Suckling pig in Hong Kong - Most memorable food experience

In general, I love street food in Asia and eating locally wherever I am. In the US, I rarely go to fine dining restaurants. What they do incredibly well there is the upper-middle market restaurants. They do that really well. The top restaurants in America are not worth the money. It’s too expensive for what it is — you may as well go to Paris and have the real deal.

Favourite thing to do while travelling

Food always plays a role, but it’s not the only thing. I like to understand where I am. I want to see how locals live, where they eat and drink, and how the city or country works. I usually make a loose list of places I’d like to see, but I like to see how things unfold. You end up having a better time that way.

Bucket list trip

I’ve always wanted to do a proper road trip through the southern United States. Alabama, Mississippi, Arkansas, Tennessee, Texas. I’d love to drive through those states, spend real time there. Another place on my list is the Yucatan coast in Mexico.

Southern USA mansion in Mobile, Alabama - Bucket list trip
Southern USA mansion in Mobile, Alabama - Bucket list trip

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