I solo-travelled to an almost-empty Greek island in winter — here's what I learned

What does one do on an almost-empty Greek island in winter? Unlike Leonard Cohen, Liv Monaghan did not find a muse, but become enveloped in nature

Skala's Harbour and church bathed in light on Agistri island

In October 2023, I went to the Greek islands chasing Leonard Cohen’s ghost — the same one that pulled him to Hydra in 1960, where he stayed seven years, fell in love, and wrote some of his most beautiful songs. 

But when I returned in winter, more than a year later, the island I found myself on was not Hydra.