Edinburgh: Be captivated by a city of hills and history

View across Edinburgh's Old Town to the cliffs of Salisbury Crags and the peak of Arthur's Seat.
On the packed evening flight on my first trip to Edinburgh in July, I had the good fortune of sitting beside a woman who knew the city intimately.
When she realised I had only the vaguest plans about what to see and do, she quickly reeled off a list of hits, which I dutifully tapped into my phone.