A festive feast for the senses: Esther McCarthy's guide to 48 hours in Belfast

A road trip to Belfast ticks all the boxes for a break with friends. Fabulous food, upscale hotels, cool bars, festive markets, what more could you want? writes Esther N McCarthy

Mon, 12 Dec, 2022 - 18:00

Esther N McCarthy

It’s Saturday night, we’ve got our sparkles on sitting in a window seat in one of the most luxurious liquor lounges in the land. Expresso martinis in our hands, admiring the fashion of our fellow glamorous tipplers and a panoramic view from the tallest bar in Ireland, the skybar in Belfast’s The Observatory. It doesn’t get much better than this.

For three Cork mammys who’ve been threatening to go on a road trip since Covid restrictions lifted, Belfast ticked all our boxes. It was far enough away that we wouldn’t be pulled back for any last minute sports/parties/elf-on-the-shelf emergencies, but still a very manageable four and a half hours from door to door, none of us had been there before and it seemed to offer all we were looking for, fabulous food, cool bars, a dash of culture and a smidgen of shopping.

Nicola McNamara, Esther McCarthy and Jillian Naughton on a weekend break to Belfast.

Belfast was all dolled up for us this December weekend, the festive lights, the shop fronts, the Christmas markets, the atmosphere as we drove though the city was one of fanfare and fun. I wasn’t sure what I was expecting, but there’s a dynamism to the city, an energy, a confidence that took us by surprise.

Touring Around Belfast gives visitors an insight into Belfast the city, its history, its murals and its people while driving the city in a classic black cab

Where to stay

We’re staying in the Park Suite in the uber-stylish The Regency in south Belfast’s upper crescent, and yes, it is as fancy as it sounds. It’s all lit up, with views out to a gorgeous green park. We feel like we’re on the Love Actually set, it’s got that vibe. We are half waiting for Emma Thompson to open the door to us. It’s superbly located, literally a two-minute walk from The Belfast Empire Music Hall, and within walking distance of The Waterfront Hall, Ulster Museum and Botanic Gardens.

The Regency Belfast is a timeless collection of bespoke serviced residences nestled in the heart of Belfast’s historic Queens Quarter.

We’re shown up to our first-floor private (unless Liam Neeson is smoldering in a turtleneck somewhere) residence, via a music room, where we make a note to come back to peruse the amazing record collection. It is simply stunning. A fire crackles in the living room, a Christmas tree twinkles in the corner and we find other delights like a cast iron freestanding bath, a walk-in dressing room and little delightful details like a complementary cheeseboard, a record player, pillow sprays and a tucked away luggage lift that make this an utterly unique property. With two gorgeous bedrooms, our own living room and kitchen, beautifully decorated, it's the perfect base for us to explore the city.

There are five, sumptuously designed, spacious one and two bed self-catering residences with a combination of restored antique and bespoke built furniture - you'll feel you're on a movie set. For rates, check out theregencybelfast.com

What to do

When you only have 48 hours away, we put together a wish list and top of the list was a black cab tour. Bill our driver (or Liam as he calls himself when we cross over into the Catholic area) brings us an insightful tour, regaling us with the history of his city, the good and the bad, through facts, songs, poems and stories.

Billy brings us around the areas of North and West Belfast synonymous with the years of conflict, pointing out the pubs with the cages, stopping off to bring the murals of the city to life and gives us a glimpse into the reality of life in a city with such a complicated history. He invites us to get out at the Peace Wall to write our messages and it is sobering to think on the events that brought such a thing to existence.

Another, less cultural thing, but just as important thing on our to-do list was the Sensorium tour. We didn’t know what to expect, just that we were going to get to make a bespoke cocktail, and do you need any more information than that? Phil and his energetic team at The Spirit Circle make it a really fun experience, we get to go from room to room across four floors of the National Bank Building on High Street, discovering what taste-sound science can do for your palate. We sniff, taste, watch, get smokey bubbles blown in our faces, sip various drinks and at the end we’re presented with individual cocktails based on our choices. It’s a celebration of the senses — but with booze, my kind of afternoon. The only annoying thing is one of the mammies is bequeathed the title of ‘Super Taster’ status and honestly, there’s no living with her after that.

St George’s Market is well worth checking out, live music, fresh local food and beautiful arts and crafts.

Where to shop

Shopping in Belfast city's Victoria Square

Don’t pass the glory of Victoria Square, every shop you could possibly need including Ireland’s only Apple Store, and it weaves in and out of the high street too. Do try to take the elevator to the dome to check out the views — on a good day you can see all the way to the Mourne Mountains.

The Belfast Christmas Markets in City Hall Gardens are magnificent and perfect if you’re after a traditional taste of Christmas. There’s all the local goodies, plus something a little bit different with 32 nationalities from all over the world bringing foods and gift ideas. Belgian chocolates, anyone? There’s a food court , a carousel and a vintage Helter Skelter. While you’re in the area, drop into Belfast City Hall to see the stunning Christmas Tree in the lobby. It’s a festive fiesta.

Where to eat

We were spoilt for choice for restaurant recommendations. Belfast has a real foodie buzz going on, and we adore the combination of casual atmospheres with real high-end offerings.

We have a gorgeous lunch in Tedfords Kitchen, sipping a grapefruit spritz cocktail, looking out at the River Lagan facing Belfast Waterfront Hall. Do not leave without trying the crispy brie, caramelised red onion and beetroot chutney with pickled walnut and watercress.

We had dinner in James St Restaurant, a casual, brick-walled spot where a random stranger comes up and compliments me on my dress, so that was obviously a favourite spot. People are so friendly and truthful here!

We had the best monkfish tails — served with pea pureé, roast cauliflower, chilli and prawn saffron fondant potatoes —we’re still pining for them — in Molly’s Yard, a short walk from The Regency.

Although we didn’t have time to do the whole Titanic museum experience this time, we did pop in to the Titanic Hotel for lunch before hitting the road back to Cork. Delicious, reasonably priced food in the most gorgeous historical setting.

We felt like we’d travelled back in time.

And it only took four and half hours on the motorway.

'Everywhere we went we got a lively, welcoming vibe — thanks Belfast, we’ll be back'

Nightlife

Check out the historic Linen Quarter with 40 cafés, bars and restaurants, a dozen hotels, and music venues, including very cool spots Rita’s and Sweet Afton.

Have a tipple in the Crown, opposite the Grand Opera House, an architectural gem, you’ll find the spectacular Crown Liquor Saloon, a masterpiece Victorian gin palace. And Billy the cabbie recommended it. So it must be good.

The Bone Yard on Bedford Street is fab and don’t forget to swing by Muriel’s, a snazzy Bohemian bar. Everywhere we went we got a lively, welcoming vibe — thanks Belfast, we’ll be back.

Check out www.discovernorthernireland.com for more information.

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