Wild island: Eight natural escapes in Ireland
A view of grey seals resting on rocks off Cape Clear.
The Covid crisis has placed our yearning for escapes with nature to the top of the staycation bucket-list.Â
From whale watching in West Cork to meandering amid the wildflowers of the Burren, weâre looking for wild encounters like never before.Â
And across Ireland, the once granola-crunching niche of eco-tourism is now recognised as a trending smart solution for both sustainable rural tourism and raising the PR profile of Irelandâs magnificent native wildlife.Â
So where can you venture to go wild? Here are eight great nature experiences across the country, as well as tips for family-run restaurants and accommodations where you can fuel up and hunker down along the way.
The most noteworthy tips for any wildlife-watching trip is to pack some patience and measure your expectations. Last weekend, I did just that, leaving out of Baltimore harbour with one of Irelandâs true eco-tourism pioneers, Whale Watch West Cork.Â
The six-hour trip aboard the Voyager catamaran skirted us along the coast of Roaring Water Bay to spot several playful pods of common dolphins, a porpoise, grey seals and Irelandâs most common cetacean, a minke whale! Skipper and zoologist Nic Slocum offered plenty of theatrical colour and insights along the way with eco-sensitivity being the excursionâs primary ethos. The trip also typically includes a stop off on stunning Cape Clear. Highly recommended for âŹ55. whalewatchwestcork.comÂ
It has to be seafood in this part of the world. If taking a break on Cape Clear, head to SĂ©an Ruaâs friendly restaurant on the quay - I enjoyed a tasty crab salad served in a handy recyclable to-go box.Â
Caseyâs Family hotel keeps you in the heart of the action in Baltimore - and offers you lesser chance of missing your boat.
One of the most iconic sounds of yesteryear rural Ireland, the corncrake may be scarce on the ground on the mainland, but itâs still very much part of the country soundtrack on Galwayâs Inishbofin.Â
And theyâre pretty proud about it there, too. The island hosted a popular corncrake festival in 2019 (also slated for 2020) drawing nature lovers and budding birders from across the world. Expert Anthony McGeehan offers tours on the island but if youâre going it alone, there are scenic corncrake breeding areas as you walk east towards the islandâs graveyard (hearing one is a great a thrill as a sighting). To get to Inishbofin, you must take the ferry from Cleggan pier, located northwest of Clifden.
Inishwallah is a, yes, London double-decker bus turned funky food-truck offering organic fare with a Keralan kick.Â
As base camp for the said corncrake festival, the eco-friendly Dolphin Hotel makes the perfect nest for your stay.
Being home to Irelandâs original eco-tourism symbol, Fungi, itâs little wonder the Dingle peninsula has carved a niche as one of Irelandâs top wildlife spotting destinations. With Jim and Bridget Flannery at the helm, Dingle Sea Safari brings guests aboard zippy rib boats for an adrenaline-soaked 3hr jaunt out from Dingle Bay.Â
Flanking the peninsulaâs spectacular cliffs and caves, the highlight is reaching Irelandâs most westerly fringe that is the Blasket Islands. Expect dolphins, seals and craic to feature on your Insta-stores, just as soon as you pick up that signal. âŹ55.
The Fish Box in Dingle serves the likes of delicious prawns, plaice and haddock caught by their very own boat CĂș na Mara!
Inch Beach Cottages located at the gateway to the peninsular play a strong eco-game and are members of the Corca Dhuibhne Glas Scheme.
Few places on Irelandâs mainland can out-sing the cacophony of birdlife experienced along the Cliffs of Moher. While most tourists enjoy the wonder from terra firma, grabbing a cruise along the Banner coastline offers a sheer thrill. Â
Literally. The Garrihy familyâs Doolin2Aran Ferries offer family-friendly cruises along the coast, where passengers are brought up-close to the cliffâs epic bird colonies (from puffins to guillemots) and the gargantuan Atlantic sea stack, An Bhreannan MĂłr. The business is also part of the stellar Burren Ecotourism Network while Iâm told their flagship Star of Doolin cruiser is the newest and fastest ship on the Wild Atlantic Way. Go lower emissions! âŹ15.Â
Family-friendly Stonecutterâs Kitchen offers hearty homemade fare while garden swings and toad-stools will appeal to the kids post-dessert.Â
Doolin Hotel must rank as one of Irelandâs greenest hotels with initiatives from harvesting rainwater to growing their own veggies.
With the release of ten more chicks into the wilds next month, the future and fortunes of the white-tailed eagle in Ireland is hopefully looking bright. The shores of Lough Derg along Irelandâs Hidden Heartlands is one of the areas where the raptors have flourished, with a pair currently said to be nesting on the Tipperary shores of the lake. Seeing the birds fly overhead is a sight to behold and given their size, theyâre impossible to muddle with anything else. If itâs a golden eagle youâd like to add to your photo reel, youâll have to venture further north, and head to Glenveagh National Park in Donegal to see them soar.
The Lough Derg Inn in Terryglass offers great Tipperary gastro grub with a scenic setting to boot.Â
To really feel at one with nature, pitch up at Lakeside Holiday Park in the Clare village of Mountshannon.
Although itâs one of Irelandâs great wildernesses, Killarney National Park is perhaps lesser known for being home to one of Europeâs few remaining yew forests. The Reenadinna Woods loop is a 6km trail near Muckross House which sweeps in lakeshore and mountain views before shrouding walkers with the gnarled fairytale woods that give the trail its name. While Sika deer are a common sight in the park, you hopefully wonât spot too many here as theyâre fenced out to protect the flora!
The Porterhouse is a great spot for local beers and fare from Kerry lamb to vegan plates.
: Slieve Bloom Manor is an eco-friendly B&B favouring local breakfasts and litter-free packed lunches. Â
Bartragh Island, an uninhabited island on the Moy Estuary is home to a large seal colony that live on the sandbank on the left as you go towards Killala Bay. The island is reachable by boat, kayak or even on foot during low tide! Elsewhere in the region, Kilcummin Peninsula is a known spot for dolphin and minke whales or you can simply bring your snorkel for Kilcummin pier.Â
Looking for even greater wilds! Get your boots on and visit Ballycroy National Park.
The On The Way cafĂ© in Killala where makes everything from scratch (try the homegrown organic salads)!Â
Brigown is a homely B&B on the quay in Ballina where ban an tĂ Marjorie runs informal baking classes in her kitchen.
 The Garden of Ireland has its definite wild side. Amid its infinite trails, Wicklow Mountains National Park has a family-friendly marked âmammal tracks and signsâ walk where you spot deer and feral goats and trace the paw prints of badgers and native red squirrels.
Thereâs something in the hummus. Stock up on your picnic supplies at The Happy Pear in Greystones and youâll be well fuelled to tackle one of the parkâs more challenging tracks. Stay:
: Youâll keep spirits high and carbon footprints low with a cosy stay at Glendalough Camping.
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