Turkey holds the land of eastern promise
James Bond couldn’t stay away from the place; the latest Dan Brown film is shot there; some ‘Indiana Jones’ and ‘Harry Potter’ scenes take place there; and it doubles as Iran in Argo.
And though it had a dire plot, one of the few things Taken 2 had going for it was the Turkish backdrop.
Just a glance at Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar or around the Sultan Ahmet Mosque (known to many as the Blue Mosque) and you can see why a director would gleefully shout ‘action!’ in Turkey.
The guidebooks go on about gateways between east and west, but what that means for tourists is a superbly exotic city four-and-a-half hours from Ireland via Turkish Airlines — an exotic city with wifi and modern hotels as your base.
The elegant five-star Sura Hagia Sophia Hotel & Spa is only 400m away from some of the main attractions such as Topkapi Palace, the Hippodrome, Archaeology Museum and the Blue Mosque, so it’s a good bet.
I spotted off-season prices for basic rooms starting from €56 a night — right up to deluxe packages.
The breakfast alone is worth making time for — think of a vast brunch and you’re more on the right track. A luxurious bed and a power shower are also fab, but not why we’re here. We want to feel like we’re ‘away’ so it’s gotta be the old city in Istanbul.
First off, get a local guide — you’ll get your money’s worth if you pepper him with questions veering from 1,500-year-old architectural mysteries, to who owns the tagged dogs lolling around the square, and some (probably daft) queries about general mosque rules.
Yes, women are asked to cover their head and everyone takes off their shoes going into the Blue Mosque. There are free plastic bags at the entrance so you can bring them with you.
Women can also borrow a blue elasticated-waist ‘skirt’ to pop over their clothes if needs be — you just drop it in a box by the door on the way out.
Next door, the Hagia Sophia has been a Greek Orthodox Christian basilica, an imperial mosque, and is now a museum. The massive domed building’s architecture and religious history are equally complex and definitely worth checking out.
Even if you’re aiming to travel light you’ve got to get to the Grand Bazaar. It’s a sprawling maze of 4,000 shops spread across 61 covered streets. Pearls, gold, handbags, jewels, lanterns, tea and clothing are some of the main goods on sale and many shops look similar so it’s wise to make a note of what number gate you entered by.
If I return I’m going to have to learn the Turkish phrase for ‘I apologise for treading on your toes’ as I trampled a fair few while stepping back for a better look at shops. Many shop-owners sit outside and invite passers-by in, but there’s no hard cajoling or pressure. And even when you go inside it’s no hassle opting not to buy after all.
I could have spent days exploring Istanbul, but we had committed to a trip to the south. It’s about an hour’s flight from Istanbul to Antalya Airport, but it’s a whole other style of living.
The jazzy, frenetic scene of Istanbul switches to a more chilled, chic atmosphere. Though there are cute boutique hotels here, many are extremely plush.
You could spend your whole holiday without leaving the resort of the Gloria Hotels. Indoor and outdoor pools, a waterpark, kids club, numerous restaurants, several golf courses, a Turkish bath, concert arena and cinema, as well as a sandy beach, might help while away the time.
Guests can get the courtesy buses between the Gloria Serenity, Verde or Golf Resort and can visit any of the bars and spas. Even the ‘standard’ rooms are classy and luxurious, so prepare to be blown away by the villa which comes with its own jacuzzi and private butler — definitely a lotto win one.
Do visit the the sea resort city of Antalya — the old quarter is so clean and beautiful I was convinced we had wandered onto a film set. The modern section is worth a look and, if you’re a bride-to-be, check out the entire street of wedding dress shops.
Konyaalti and Lara beach near the town are bordered by a glorious mountain range. And there’s another resort in the mountains — complete with revolving restaurant and a cable-car to the top.
A short drive away is the ruined city of Perge which was visited by St Paul. Again, a good guide would bring this alive. Osman Ozbuldu was a mine of information on the local history as well as modern social issues and customs.
Everywhere seems to dish up great food — superbly fresh veg, meat galore, chocolate and sticky, sweet desserts — I saw locals sipping a rich purplish drink called Salgam which I just had to try.
If the salty, vinegary juice surrounding jars of beetroot is your thing then go for it — otherwise, ditch the fermented turnip and red carrot beverage for tasty local wines or juices.
For more information, go to turkishairlines.com, surahagiasophiahotel.com, gloria.com.tr/en, maxxroyal.com, agnetours.com and facebook.com/osmanozbuldu
Turkish Airlines and airport safety
Turkish Airlines fly to more than 280 destinations worldwide. The fleet is ultra modern but harks back to a more glamorous era of air travel: the food overall is is actually restaurant quality and business class customers enjoy the services of the 'flying chef'.
The personal TVs come with a range of blockbuster movies and games. Flights are from Dublin for now but fingers crossed for Cork - and hopefully direct to Antalya too.
Airport security has been taken pretty seriously in Turkey. Cars entering the airport at Antalya are scanned at the entrance and all visitors go through a double security check starting with one right at the front door.
I had a chat with the impressive Ilker AYCI, chairman of Turkish Airlines about the challenges they have faced with international security issues as well as domestic incidents and he outlined the massive changes they have implemented since the attempted presidential coup in July last. Modern scanning equipment and K9 teams are just some of the measures in place.
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