A weekend break in the city that never sleeps
ACCORDING to Dorothy Parker, she of the Algonquin fame, “London is satisfied, Paris is resigned but New York is always hopeful”. And Midtown Manhattan seems surprisingly laid back and cheerful on a spring break, especially when it’s considered that it’s image is more often the backdrop of gritty cop dramas.
With wide sidewalks built for strolling and oodles of squares and green spaces, it somehow feels less frenetic than London, as I discovered when I spent a few days in the city over Easter.
New York for many is synonymous with Broadway and seeing a musical is top of most wish lists. I aimed for shows that weren’t likely to cross the Atlantic. It Shoulda Been You at Brooks Atkinson Theatre, is a terrific witty musical centred around a Jewish family wedding that doesn’t go quite according to plan. A directorial debut for David Hyde Pierce (aka Niles Crane), Frazier fans will be delighted to see some familiar faces from the sitcom in the cast.
The Rockettes kick it out of the park in New York Spring Spectacular, a charming, smaltzy song and dance show at the cavernous Radio City Music hall. New to the list of classic revivals is ‘An American in Paris’ which features designs by Irish designer Bob Crowley. There is a half price booth in Times Square for on-the-day reductions on a good selection of shows. In my experience though, you fare better at the venue box office where you have a wider selection of the lower priced tickets available. Locals swear by the website www.broadwaybox.com
With 840 acres of lawns, meadows, lakes and woods, the scale and diversity of Central Park may surprise you. Take a picnic or dine at the waterside in Loeb’s Boathouse, one of the most picturesque dining spots in the city. Make a pilgrimage to Strawberry Fields, the memorial garden to John Lennon. The only straight line in the park is The Mall, a boulevard lined with statues of famous writers. The best way to cover all 840 acres of the terrain is by bicycle which can be hired at Bike and Roll at the Midtown end.
Nicely described in Lonely Planet Guide as a ‘an unfurled emerald necklace of park space’ the High Line is a disused rail track that has been planted up and rebooted as a NY’s newest public greenspace. Cutting a swathe through the Meatpacking District, Chelsea and Greenwich, you get a good perspective on the city from the elevated line and I loved the elegant outdoor seating all along the route. Do it on a weekday when it is not so busy.
The scaffolding is up as the interior of St Patrick’s Cathedral on 5th Avenue undergoes a major overhaul. The episcopal church of St John the Divine is the largest ecclesiastical space in the US. One of the intriguing services offered here is a Blessing of the Bikes in late April
Since the closure of New York City Opera, The Metropolitan Opera has a monopoly on the big house experience. In May you don’t have to leave home to wallow in a lavish production as Mascagni’s double bill Cav/Pag will be beamed live to cinemas around the world today in the Met Live in HD series.
The real wow factor of the live experience is seeing first-hand, the stunning architecture of the open, light filled house which opened in 1966. Climb the magnificent cantilevered stairway, marvel at the gigantic Chagall murals and admire the starburst crystal chandeliers. Sup from the Ezio Pinza water fountain and rub shoulders with the NY opera glitterati and imagine that you are starring in your very own version of Moonstruck.
On the fringe, in a more intimate downtown theatre space, Amore Opera present HMS Pinafore and Don Giovanni is scheduled in May.
For an off-off-Broadway opera experience you might be lucky to catch an evening of Opera on Tap. In the backroom of Barbes Bar Brooklyn, sandwiched between jazz and salsa, I heard an impressive collective of seven excellent singers. Librettists and composers stood cheek by jowl with punters and there was craft beer on tap to boot.
The shabby chic, Greenwich Village is at it’s best in the evening when the pubs and clubs come to life.
Arthurs’ Bar in Grove St is an institution. Not comfortable, it is a smoky cramped bar that hosts nightly jazz and blues. There is no cover charge but there is a two drinks minimum.
Next door, the oddly named Marie’s Crisis was packed for an old fashioned singalong to hits from My Fair Lady.
The City Winery is a lofty rather more genteel wine bar in Varnick Street that hosts gigs by relatively big names. Rodney Crowell with Emmylou Harris is sold out on May 21 but you could add your name to the waiting list.
Leaving aside the department stores Macy’s and Bloomingdales et al, the book shops are great places to browse. The Strand Book Store hosts readings and lectures in the other-worldly Rare Book Section on the top floor.
The baseball season has begun and sports fans will make a beeline for Yankee Stadium in The Bronx. What gal wouldn’t want to be taken out to a ball game: “Buy me some peanuts and some crackerjack and I don’t care if we ever get back.”
Gen up on kosher cuisine at Zabar’s Deli in Upper West Side where neighbours meet for lunch and a chat . Best brunch was at the retro Skylight Diner in Hell’s Kitchen area. The hot food counters in the ubiquitous Korean delis were cheap and tasty. Best café experience was CaffeReggio’s in Greenwich Village with boasts an antique coffee machine and claims to be the home of the original cappucino.
Dailly flights to JFK from Shannon and Dublin; United Airlines fly Dublin to Newark Airport. Prices start at €259 one way.
The Radisson Martinique on Greeley Square is in a convenient Midtown location near Penn Station, Broadway and next to a subway station. Last minute doubles through Trivago from €150 a night .
The subway is relatively easy to use. You need to know if you are going uptown or downtown . You buy a metrocard for €1 and load it with credit. A single ride is €2.60 regardless of distance. If you are in NY for more than 2 days, consider an unlimited seven-day pass at €30.
Buy a ticket at the desk at the end of the Baggage Hall. Alternatively take the Air Train to Jamaica and transfer to subway or LIRR regional train.
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