Ski, snow and some schnapps in Austria’s Kitzbueheler Alps

Alan Shortt quickly finds his feet in Austria’s Kitzbueheler Alps and discovers zooming down the slopes, arms outstretched, is the closest a man can get to flying without wings.

Ski, snow and some schnapps in Austria’s Kitzbueheler Alps

I AM STANDING at over 6,000ft above sea level, looking out over the magnificent snow-capped Kitzbueheler Alps in Austria, the icy clear air cuts through my sinuses allowing both nostrils to flare like a bull getting ready to battle, because the only way home, is “DOWN!”

I am fully prepared for the cold air, with my Hyper Blue Columbia TurboDown Ski Jacket with Omni heat Thermal reflective Technology, which will keep me warm and toasty while I wait for the hospital helicopter to take me off the slopes, and the bright colour will make sure I can be seen from space.

[Mental note 1 — Prepare for worst and the best will happen!]

I click my left ski boot into my yellow ski, then slowly, the right boot, the sound of the fastening mechanism echoes in my ears, hoping it will release the muscle memory neurons in my brain.

It’s been five years since I had two plastic planks attached to my feet. “Iz like Widing a Wike!” shouts Sam, my white-haired bearded Austrian ski instructor.

[Mental note 2 — Always get ski instruction during your first days on the slopes, it helps you get your ski legs and it’s an excellent way to get to know the mountain]

“Okay! Lean down Zi mountain, Ass in! and Benzi knees!” My first swish of snow is a little nervous, my second swoosh is exciting and my third “parallel turn” is exhilarating, not a snowplough in sight [pizza slice shape with skis].

Skiing down a slope on freshly fallen snow always gives me a total sense of freedom and euphoria, the wind in my face, arms out stretched, it’s the closest a man can get to flying without wings.

I stayed in Kirchberg, an excellent resort with access to the world-famous Kitzbueheler Alps and Pass Thurn which has over 170 km of pistes, 53 cable cars and lifts and 820 snow making facilities which guarantees excellent snow conditions for the whole season regardless of how much real snow actually falls on the ground.

Once the temperature drops below minus-three degrees and humidity is below 40% they can make enough snow in 72 hours to cover all the slopes.

My favourite feature is the heated seats on the ski lifts, they really help to defrost my derriere in between ski runs and gentle falls.

A great way to break up the holiday is to ski until lunch and go off piste in the afternoons to experience all the other activities that the Kitzbuehel-Kirchberg ski resort has to offer.

Sleigh rides, snow-shoeing, ice-climbing, ice-skating, curling, tobogganing, the Alpeniglu igloo village, and one of my favourites, a guided tour through the Erber Schnapps distillery.

Our tour begins in the basement, surrounded by large copper pot stills where the schnapps bubbles and boils, hums and hisses until it is crystal clear, pleasing in the nose and a pleasure on the palate.

I am not sure if Toni [our host] had an Irish group in his distillery before, because he was surprised the tasting session became the longest part of the tour.

I was amazed that my unrefined palate was able to taste the individual fruit in each schnapps, after guessing every fruit in the forest, my favourite was pear, then we ran out of shot glasses.

Every year the Erber distillery delivers 80,000 litres of schnapps and 70,000 litres of Gluhwein up the mountains for the ski season. Toni also assured us that premium quality fruit schnapps has a medicinal quality and may count for one of your “five a day”.

[Mental note 3 — Flying with a charter allows you a little extra weight in your case for liquid presents]

As well as tasting the local brew, it’s very important to taste the local food. My favourite time of the day on a skiing holiday is lunch time. The standard of local cuisine in the mountain restaurants is excellent.

Begin with a goulash which is neither a soup or a stew, but it will warm the cockles of your heart after a hard morning’s skiing. For main course choose the “Tiroler Grostl”, a bacon, onion, potato fry-up topped with a fried egg, its both hearty and delicious, or try the “Weiner Schnitzel mit Kalb” which is a thin slice of veal, coated with flour, egg, bread crumbs and deep-fried.

For dessert, apple strudel with vanilla custard is always a good choice with your morning hot chocolate “mit rum” but my favourite is “Kaiserschamarrn omelette rosolato” [eggy pancakes] with a homemade prune sauce. Then retire with your coffee to a sun chair over looking the ski slopes and rub your contented full belly before you decide should “I ski or shop?” for the afternoon.

Only 90 minutes from Kirchberg is the enchanting city of Salzburg, home of the Von Trapp family from the Sound of Music and Mozart.

[Mental note 4, Salzburgers much prefer Mozart over “Maria”.]

I spent most of my day wandering through the medieval lane ways of the Getreidegasse district, discovering pokey little shops selling painted eggs and all things Austrian.

If you want real bargains go to the McArthurGlen designer shopping outlet centre 5 minutes walk from Salzburg airport. It has more than 100 top brands under one roof, scented hand driers in the toilets and a contemplation room complete with a rug and a cushion to sit on while you contemplate “should I buy for me …. or her?”

The best part of any ski holiday is “Apres Ski”. You can choose from the up-market Kitzbuelel which has excellent ski bars including the very stylish Casino which offers fantastic food and a superb wine list as well as a small flutter special offer — €30 worth of chips for €27.50.

The host at my black jack table was so friendly he even advised me when to bet and when not to bet. I still managed to lose it all, unlike their largest winner who won a massive €900,000 on the roulette table.

So with my pockets nearly empty I head to my favourite apres ski bar in Kirchberg, “The Eisbar”. Casper, my apres ski instructor, prepares his special strudel, apple juice, apple liquor, Austrian rum topped with whipped cream, cover with a beer mat, shake and drink!

The DJ gets to know everyone on first name terms, the playlist gets even the stiffest hips gyrating. Before I know I am striding up and down the dance floor attempting the Zillertaler Landler dance, a bit like the Siege of Venice without the swinging.

Then Casper sums up a ski holiday all in one quote, “You know Alan, snow is a lot like zi sex, you never know ven it vill arrive, how many inches you vill get, or how long its going to last!”

Happy Skiing!!!

Getting there

Topflight charter flights direct from Dublin, Cork, and Belfast. Offering full luggage allowances, transfers to resort and accommodation. www.topflight.ie

Accommodation

Kirchberg:

Stay at the 4 star Zentral Hotel in the centre of town for just €979 on March 7.

Call Topflight on 01 2401700, www.topflight.ie  or your local travel agent.

Affordable Kitzbuehel with www.directski.com

Stay at the excellent 3 Star Kolpinhaus Apartments from just €451 on March 14.

Book online on www.directski.com , or locall 1890 201205 – check online discounts and deals!

Ski Stuff

Great outdoors have an excellent choice of ski gear.

Ski Passes

Kitzbuehler Alpin All Star Card €249

Travel Digest

By Barry Coughlan

A summer treat for families

Families can enjoy a summer self- catering holiday in Britain with Stena Line from less than €88 per day for travel and seven nights’ accommodation at a range of 10 Haven holiday parks. Early bookers (before March 2) will also make family savings of up to €340.

Go to www.stenaline.ie/haven , call 01-2047733 or visit any travel agent.

Emirates offer reduced rates

Emirates offers special seat prices for bookings made up to Friday next (January 16). All-inclusive business class fares from Dublin start at €1,999 to Dubai, from €2,343 to Africa and €3,075 to Australia. Economy fares to Dubai are available from €474, €617 to Africa and €790 to Australia. www.emirates.com

Andorra for all

Crystal Ski Ireland has special getaway prices to Andorra with facilities for all grades of skier. The best of them are available in the resorts of Soldeu and El Tarter centred in a vast area suitable for everyone. Details on www.crystalski.ie

Underwater experience

Bora Bora, the striking island known as “The Pearl of the Pacific” in the islands of Tahiti, has launched an underwater wedding experience. Organised by TopDive.

It is ideal for newlyweds on their honeymoon or couples seeking romance laced with adventure 13-feet below the striking lagoon.

The “Bora Bora Underwater Wedding” ceremony lasts 30 minutes. visit: www.boraboraunderwaterwedding.com

Caribbean summer sale

Travelmood is in the midst of a Caribbean summer sale with offers to a selection of idyllic destinations, amongst them a seven-night deal in Barbados from €1,199 at the four-star Southern Palms Beach Clun.

Details on with www.travelmood.ie , or call them on 01-4331063.

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