A weekend break at Clontarf Castle

HAVE you ever wondered what it might have been like when banquets were held in fairytale castles, and the mead flowed freely for ladies and lords of the manor? 

Such were our thoughts as we cruised up the impressive tree-lined drive into Clontarf Castle Hotel. Stopping to allow a wandering black cat cross our path, we smiled at this good omen as shafts of afternoon sunshine broke through the cloud to signal a winning start to our Dublin weekend.

In a year where the 1,000th anniversary of one of Irish history’s most important battles is being celebrated, a weekend sojourn in the aristocratic grandeur of this Clontarf hostelry seemed entirely appropriate.

The Battle of Clontarf on Friday, April 23, 1014, is a date etched in the memory of every Irish schoolchild — the day which saw Brian Boru, the greatest High King of Ireland, killed by retreating Vikings at the moment of his greatest triumph. “There’s been a huge interest in the battle from all kinds of tourists all year,” the concierge informed us. “People from all over the world keep arriving to Clontarf to experience where it all happened.”

Originally constructed in 1172, the present castle was completely rebuilt in 1837 by distinguished Irish architect, William Vetruvius Morrison. Having been one of Dublin’s best loved cabaret centres going back to the 1960s, the ancient structure underwent a €10 million renovation and upgrade in 2007, bringing it to a standard where its wonderful medieval atmosphere has been skilfully blended with the best of modern refinements.

Having stowed the golf clubs in the boot, we found ourselves spoiled for choice with two of the city’s best courses right on our doorstep. Just five minutes away is Clontarf Golf Club, one of Dublin’s oldest established clubs, founded in 1912 on the lands of nearby Mount Temple. An extra five minutes away is Royal Dublin Golf Club, considered one of the finest links courses in the country and the venue for many national and international championships. Green fees on the spectacular Martin Hawtree designed course cost €120. If you opt for the Clontarf Castle Hotel’s ‘Pay & Play’ package, you can enjoy two nights B&B accommodation with a round at the Royal Dublin for €200 per person sharing.

Whether strolling around the tree-lined streets or taking a brisk run along the glorious seafront, Clontarf reveals itself as one of Dublin’s most historic suburbs. Places, events and people that form its fascinating story range from St Comgall’s church, dating from 550; Lord Charlemont and the Casino; Daniel O’ Connell and the Clontarf Monster Meeting that never was; Captain Weldon and the escape of Fenian leader James Stephens in 1866; and Captain William Bligh of ‘Mutiny of the Bounty’ fame.

During the upcoming Clontarf Millennium Heritage Week, running from tomorrow August 17 to 24, the historical society will be running daily guided walks along the battle trail. And if you like your history with even more bite, Dracula author Bram Stoker wrote much of his iconic novel at his home on The Crescent.

Given the beauty of the weekend’s 75 degree sunshine, the well-informed receptionist recommended an afternoon on Dollymount Beach, located on the nearby Bull Island. Affectionately known to generations of Dubs simply as ‘Dollier’, many recall it as the place they first learned to drive, while the thousands of joggers and dog walkers consider it one of the best reasons for living on this side of the city. Bull Island Nature Reserve was designated a bird sanctuary in the 1930s, and a national nature reserve in 1988. It is also listed as a biosphere reserve by UNESCO. We strolled home through St Anne’s Park and its famous Rose Garden. Lord Ardilaun’s nearby Victorian stables have now been transformed into the Red Stables Art Centre, attracting huge crowds to the Saturday food market.

After a long soak in the claw-foot tub, it was time to ease into the evening with pre-dinner drinks in the atmospheric Knights Bar, located in the original 12th century part of the hotel where the huge open fireplaces and beautiful stained-glass windows evoke imaginary visions of King Arthur. A party of Americans, just in from an afternoon on the Dublin Pub Trail tour, regaled us with tales of Guinness and ballad singing in legendary haunts like McDaid’s, The Stag’s Head and Davy Byrnes. “What I don’t get is how the heck guys like Behan, Joyce and Kavanagh ever found time to write what with all the drinking and carousing,” asked a clearly perplexed Mike from Des Moines.

Proving there’s nothing like a day of walking and sunbathing to build an appetite, we headed for the first floor Fahrenheit Grill full of expectation. In the assured hands of head chef Stuart Heeney, we weren’t disappointed. Opting for the starters of Ham Hock Roulade of crispy hen’s egg, pickled vegetables & honey mustard dressing (€8.25), and Fivemiletown Goats Cheese Mousse with baby beetroot & apricot jam (€7.50), we dined in style as the setting sun cast a rosy glow through the lead-lined windows. A grand room in the old fashioned sense of the word, it’s the kind of dining experience made for that special birthday or anniversary. Opting for the 8oz Aberdeen Angus Fillet (€27.95), plus the full trimmings of Portobello mushrooms, watercress salad and handcut chips, the day’s exercise was well rewarded. Across the table, the Pan Seared Seabass with potato confit and langoustines in a shellfish cream celeriac puree (€22.50) clearly brought a similarly contented silence. We followed this with Irish Coffees (€7.50).

Clontarf Castle’s Luxury City Breaks include an overnight escape from €99 per person, which includes bed & breakfast in a deluxe room and table d’hote for two at the Fahrenheit Grill Restaurant with a complimentary bottle of wine. A luxury two-night city break costs from €129 per person with dinner on one evening of choice.