Miami is more nice than vice
The Florida jewel has a reputation for glitzy living but is certainly more nice than vice. A thriving centre of culture and business with year-round sunshine and an annual average temperature of about 24C, it has something for everyone.
While it has many resorts along the coast, Miami has become much more of a family-friendly destination in recent years, with many hotels now offering well-developed children’s activities. There are plenty of museums and galleries for culture vultures, while the plethora of national and city parks mean there are plenty of relaxing oases.
British Airways flies directly from Heathrow to Miami, and I was fortunate enough to take advantage of BA’s Club World, which was a very pleasant way to spend our time in the sky. While that’s the pricier option (about £3,000), BA’s World Traveller fares start from €554 including taxes and charges. With an average winter temperature of about 19C it is an attractive destination for Irish people seeking a break at the beginning or end of the year. Our summer coincides with the rainy season there, but hotel prices can fall dramatically so there are pros for going then as well.
When it comes to planning, though, bear in mind that the city is huge and various communities stretch most of the way down the southern Florida coast, and even though Miami has one of the highest numbers of high-rise buildings in the US, it is very spread out. This, in some ways, is part of the interest, because it’s greatly varied. The city is home to many Latin American communities, and so neighbourhoods from Little Brazil to the more famous Little Havana are scattered about the place and each offer their own flavours. We visited Little Havana and its cigar factories while on a bus tour with Dragonfly Expeditions that took in the likes of Coconut Grove and Coral Gables, which highlight Miami’s planned origins and fine art deco architecture.
If it’s colour you want, then South Beach is the place for you. The epitome of sun, sea, and luxury, this affluent district is home to some of the city’s top hotels, finest beaches, and best shopping destinations. Easily one of the trendiest parts of the city, it’s also a haven for those who just want to hang out and people watch. Meanwhile, Ocean Drive, one of the city’s main avenues, is home to the Versace mansion and heart of the Art Deco District, while Lincoln Rd is a pedestrian street that has become an open-air shopping centre, catering from tourist knickknacks near the beach to funky outlets like Anthropologie. A wooden walkway all the way south parallel to the hotels and the beach makes for a leisurely chance to stretch your legs or work up an appetite for food or shopping.
The Fontainebleau hotel (pronounced “Fountain Blue”), which in 2008 completed a $1bn overhaul, is one of South Beach’s premier hotels and home to one of the top grossing nightclubs in the country, Liv. This is the place to be seen and celeb watch, with the likes of Kim Kardashian booking it for their birthdays. But don’t expect to just wander in — queues are massive and the admission price can be $60. As it’s one of the most exclusive clubs in one of the most exclusive hotels, demand will always outweigh spaces in the club. Some people get together and reserve a VIP table, but that can cost $5,000.
The hotel has its own heritage, though. The distinctive curvilinear main building has also been a filming location for a string of classic films, including Goldfinger and Scarface. Right on the beach, as most of the hotels on that stretch of Collins Avenue are, it’s within striking distance of downtown and more accessible night spots.
Outside of the city proper is the Fontainebleau’s sister hotel, the Turnberry Isle. The two hotels, despite being part of the same family, showcase the wide variety that is the hallmark of Miami, with the Fontainebleau buzzing and busy and the Turnberry more laidback. These are at the five-star end of the market, and deservedly so, but there are more reasonable options in chains such as Doubletree and Homewood Suites.
The Mediterranean-style Turnberry is certainly tops for golf enthusiasts, with two 18-hole courses, as well as tennis courts and a relaxing pool. It is laidback luxury on 300 acres with fine dining that features vegetables from its own garden. It’s also across the road from one of the biggest shopping centres in Florida, Aventura Mall, which is the definition of a shopper’s paradise. It’s particularly strong on fashion but the presence of larger department stores such as Sears and Bloomingdales means most interests are catered for.
Shopping and sunbathing isn’t enough for everybody, though, so those seeking a bit more adventure can head for the Everglades for an airboat or fishing tour. The Everglades, home to many an alligator and one of the great natural wonders of the US, is an iconic piece of landscape but is just a relatively short drive from the urban communities around Miami.
If you fancy a touch of culture within the city, the thriving artistic quarter, Wynwood, is well worth a visit. In a fantastic example of urban regeneration, what was once a warehouse district is now full of small studios and galleries, with (thoroughly endorsed) street art found everywhere. The architecture hasn’t changed, but the murals alone make once-sterile walls vibrant. This part of Miami now also hosts one of the biggest art expos in the world, Art Basel Miami, when the district is filled with huge tents that serve as exhibition halls for the famous and soon-to-be famous alike. There are about 70 studios and galleries here, and once a month a special walking tour sees them open their doors and there are various special offers in restaurants and other locations.
It would be hard to go to a city so closely associated with dolphins and not see them for yourself, so check out the Miami Seaquarium for a variety of shows and the chance to swim with the majestic creatures. However, book ahead and be sure to allow plenty of time, as it’s a very popular attraction and there are limits on the numbers who can swim with the dolphins.
The prices range from $36 for a child observer to $199 to take part in the ‘odyssey’ where you’re pulled across a pool by one of the animals. The park also offers a ‘trainer for a day’ package for $460.
You won’t see everything Miami has to offer in a day, or even a few days, but if you try to cram too much in you run the risk of missing out on some of the ambience and buzz of the place. However, if you do fancy going further afield, the Everglades are about an hour away, Disneyland near Orlando is three and a half hours away, and the Port of Miami offers cruises across the Caribbean.
British Airways has three daily flights from Heathrow T5, leaving at 9.40am, 1.35pm, and 2.55pm, with fares starting from €554. The flight is about eight hours and 30 minutes. Miami International is one of the busiest airports in the world, so expect a long queue at immigration and bring plenty of distractions for the children (or yourself).
Accommodation: For luxury rooms and fantastic food, try the Turnberry Isle (turnberryislemiami.com) or the Fontainebleau (Fontainebleau.com), which have rooms from $229 per night. There are plenty of hotels charging around $50 a night.
Everglades Alligator Farm: Farm show and airboat tours cost $15.50 for children and $23 for adults, farm shows only are $10.50 and $15.50 respectively.
Miami Seaquarium: Standard access prices are about $38 for adults, and $28 for children aged 3-9, plus the ever-present sales tax. Check the website (miamiseaquarium.com) when planning your visit as they sometimes do bundle deals with other sites, such as the zoo or museums.
For guided tours of Miami and Florida, see dragonflyexpeditions.com
For the latest events and offers, see the local tourist board’s site, miamiandbeaches.com
There are 6,000 eateries in the city catering for every wallet and palate.
News Café: In the heart of South Beach and open 24 hours a day, this vibrant café is not only good for snacks and lunch but is the place to go for people watching.
Gotham Steak House at the Fontainebleau does wonderful fine dining at the higher end of the market, while the Wynwood Kitchen does tasty mains for about $15.
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