Cape of good hope

WITH landscapes and dramatic views that stir the soul and comfort camping that feels like home, a trip to Cape Clear island off the coast of west Cork is escapism at its finest.

What more could you ask for than to open the wooden door of your yurt — a truly unique camping experience — to a stunning view of the harbour, sea and cliffs.

To explain — a yurt is a felt-covered, wooden structure traditionally used by nomads in the steppes of central Asia.

These days they are used for “glampers”, or glam campers as festival-goers have branded the practice of luxury tenting. But calling it that doesn’t do a yurt justice and what the proprietors of Chléire Haven camping resort have created is a home away from home experience — cosy and romantic yet spacious and practical too. The perfect place to stay if you need comfort yet still want that outdoorsy feeling.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

As you approach Cape Clear Island, a windswept land mass rising out of the Atlantic near Baltimore, you know it’s going to be something special. And though the island is just 45 minutes by ferry from the mainland, it really feels like a million miles away.

The ferry pulls up at a picture-perfect harbour complete with wooden sailing boat wrecks and the island’s only shop which also serves great lunches and homemade pizza. The walk to the campsite takes less than 10 minutes at a stroll.

With stunning cliff and sea views, standing at the top of the immaculately kept site overlooking South Harbour, it’s easy to see why this spot was chosen.

THE ISLAND

Cape Clear Island is Ireland’s most southerly island. Three miles long and 1.5 miles wide, it has a population of just more than 100 people.

A Gaeltacht island — it is known as the birthplace of Saint Ciarán, for the Dún an Óir fort, and for its bird life, including black and common guillemots, cormorants and storm petrels. Every first weekend of September, the island hosts the Cape Clear Island International Storytelling Festival, which has been running annually since 1994. The festival features professional international storytellers from all over the world.

Though the island is small, there is an abundance of walks. You can kayak, snorkel in the amazingly clear turquoise water, or take guided tours.

Alternatively, there’s every opportunity to do nothing and just relax in the tranquility of your surroundings and get away with it.

THE ACCOMMODATION

Inside the yurt, there’s a bed, a couch, a wood-burning stove, a gas cooker, an ice cooler and everything you might need to cook a meal.

The wooden structures are about as big as a nice sized room and high enough to stand and walk about in comfortably.

But it’s the little touches by hosts Sally and Dave that really make the place feel like home, and stepping inside is like entering another world.

You can pre-order full Irish breakfast packs to cook yourself and there’s games, books, candles and beanbags. Once you shut that cute wooden door, you shut out all you worries and woes.

AMENITIES

The campsite has newly refurbished showers and toilet blocks with wetrooms. There’s also an area for washing clothes and a washing line — that’s all you need when camping.

Also, plans are afoot for a children’s play area.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

There are only three options all within about five minutes of each other, and within easy walking distance of the campsite: An Siopa Beag at the harbour, Ciarán Danny Mike’s pub and restaurant, or Cotters pub.

You need to check and double check about opening times and kitchen times or you may be left hungry.

WHAT TO SEE

If you are lucky you might catch a glimpse of the seals, basking sharks and dolphins which are found in the surrounding water, while sea pinks and honeysuckle are common plants on the land.

Cape Clear is home to a lighthouse and a bird observatory and is a prime bird watching destination. At certain times of the year it is home to hundreds of species of migratory birds which are attracted to its climate, which is much milder than mainland Ireland’s.

A late evening hike across to the western side of island is well worth it for a stunning sunset with Mizen Head and the Fastnet rock in your sights.

THE DAMAGE

Prices for a yurt (based on a one week stay) are from €70 per night. The Yurts can sleep a family of six with children up to 16.

Teepees are €20 per person, per night and can house up to eight people. Regular camping is €10 per person per night. To make a booking, contact: Dave or Sally on 086-1971956.

ANYTHING TO ADD?

An ideal trip to Cape Clear really is weather dependent.