Hidden Youghal
THE pretty seaside town of Youghal in East Cork was a regular summertime destination for me and my siblings. We rented a litte house across from Perks (then, on the seafront) and spent the lazy days of our annual fortnight hopping over to the beach in the morning and buying chips for our tea on the way home.
But I am ashamed to admit that during my recent trip back I was introduced to buildings, gardens and streets for the first time.
Prompted to take a quick stroll off the beaten track, I stepped into a colourful past inhabited by figures from the literary, scientific and military worlds, whose names left me feeling somewhere between fear and admiration.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
I was already very familiar with the landmark beach, pier, main streets and town clock, but, thanks to Youghal Walking Tour guide Sheila Loughnan, I discovered that behind North Main Street lie several hidden gems. And, thanks to the dedicated work of FÁS, the Town Council and some heritage-savvy locals, those jewels in the town’s crown are slowly being unveiled.
Work is underway to restore the wonderful tiered gardens at St Mary’s College on Emmet Place, which is bordered by the town’s original walls.
THE HOTEL
Today, one of Youghal’s best-known modern landmarks is Aherne’s Townhouse — a few yards across the road from Youghal’s famous Almshouses, at 163 Main Street.
Aherne’s has been a haven for fish lovers since its establishment in 1968. A short walk from the pier, it’s no wonder seafood is the piece de resistance of this delightful family-run ‘mini’ hotel.
Some rooms have a sea view, while others have large balconies overlooking the pretty courtyard entrance. We had the latter — and were impressed with the size and comfort of this room.
THE RESTAURANT
Be prepared for a lengthy response when you quiz chef and co-owner David Fitzgibbon on the genesis of the seafood — he knows the name of every fisherman (and some fisherwomen) who have supplied the catch, which varies daily.
Specialities are lobsters, prawns, turbot, monkfish and mussels, and the food is spectacular.
And don’t forget Aherne’s extensive wine list, and if you’re not a connoisseur — David is a willing consultant.
WHAT TO SEE
The next day we treated ourselves to a view from our perch on our Blackwater Cruises boat.
You can also enjoy stunning views of the sea from the site of the old college, scenery also shared by Sir Walter Raleigh and later Sir Richard Boyle. Follow Sheila up medieval streets lined with magnificent stone buildings, and suddenly she will produce the impressive ten-inch key that looks more like a Harry Potter movie prop than a functioning security device — to unlock the spectacular St Mary’s Collegiate Church. On the way through the graveyard, Sheila will point out the graves of several well-known writers and artists. For example, journalist Patrick Cockburn’s father is buried here.
Once inside, visually feast on the stained-glass windows, the wonderful 13th century architecture and the elaborate sculpted homage to the Boyle family — the Earls of Cork.
Built in 1220 and extended in the following two centuries, it is still in use by the Church of Ireland community.
As you leave the little graveyard, take a peek over the wall into Myrtle Grove — the former house of Sir Walter Raleigh dating back to 1602.
Back on the main street, the Almshouses, built by Boyle for old soldiers, are now in use by the Town Council for its tenants, though constructed a few years after Raleigh’s home.
THE DAMAGE
Weekend special: Stay for two nights B&B with dinner on the night of your choice from €140 per person sharing — upgrade to a junior suite for just €160 per person sharing.
Or, enjoy one-night’s B&B and the 3 course Table d’Hote menu from €90 per person sharing. Upgrade to a junior suite and pay €110 per person sharing. Both offers valid until June 2.
Youghal Walking Tour - Sheila 024-92502
ANYTHING TO ADD
If you want to entertain the kids on a wet weekend, check out the Aura centre at the far end of the beach — (www.auraleisure.ie) with its 25m pool, cool water slide and state-of-the-art gym for the parents.
They are running camps and classes throughout the year. We found the staff hugely helpful.
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