Cracking Krakow

VISUALLY, Krakow captivates. Historically, the city fascinates, and culturally, it resonates, but one deep breath and you’ll find the air is thick with… kebab.

This was less anticipated than the grand buildings and great squares, cobbled streets and trams, which tend to enthral. Yes, kebabs, McDonald's and Irish pubs are two-a-penny in the great cities of central Europe nowadays, but I have never seen so many kebab queues in my life. Young Krakovians seem to like nothing better than to tuck into a sandwiched spread of sliced, spiced lamb meat day or night.

This was just one of the surprises Krakow had in store. There were others, too, more pleasant but just as strange. There was a birthday trip into the nether world of a salt mine, where, along with the labyrinthine tunnels, the miners had hewn for themselves not one, not two, but three chapels cut into the white rock. And there was the well-dressed restaurant dog complete with bow tie. I asked why, but didn't get much of a response. Never mind.