A treasure trail of five feelgood independent Irish shops 

Take a vicarious adventure as Jennifer Horgan scouts charming shops with exclusive stock and one-of-a-kind finds 

Emily Connell and her dog outside her Ballinspittle shop Chalk and Easel.

When my husband and I visited Rome this summer, I wandered about the backstreet shops while he queued for the colosseum.

The colosseum has already been discovered by millions of people, and studied in classrooms around the globe, along with a whole lot of other histories about men and their conquests.

What I want from my holiday is the buzz of discovery, that delectable adrenaline rush I get when I cross the threshold of somewhere truly unique and enchanting. Discovering beautiful shops is neither frivolous nor uncultured. For me at least, it’s soul food. To limit the reveal, I’m going to provide only the briefest accounts of my favourite Irish holiday pitstops.

The Storytelling Shop, Co Kerry

Interior of The Storytelling Shop in Co Kerry.

In colourful Cahirsiveen, you’ll find a shop like no other. Creator Netty Robinson doesn’t expect you to necessarily buy anything, but she does want you to buy into the idea of the shop.

The shop literally tells a story, the story of a mermaid. Across the ceiling, Netty depicts the life of the mermaid using lights and netting, and various sparkly flourishes. It’s also her own story and the story of every woman, a story of four seasons. The shop is a wonderful celebration of life in all its colour. I’m transfixed every time.

Netty gifted herself a year-long lease of the premises for her 60th birthday, and sees the shop as a chance to put her story and other stories out into the world.

“My shop is not for the tourist industry. I want to create a unique shopping experience. It’s certainly not lucrative.”

The shop sells an array of local crafts, trinkets, jewellery, art, and various other delights and curiosities. It also incorporates a walk-in crafting experience where adults and children can make their own pieces.

“These are sold by weight, so if you’d like to make a fairy wand from feathers you certainly won’t be out of pocket,” laughs Netty.

Ardmore Pottery & Gallery, Co Waterford

Mother and daughter team Mary and Katie Lincoln of Ardmore Pottery and Gallery.

This is my destination shop. Ardmore is spectacular, the beach vast, and the locals friendly, but this shop draws me back every time. 

What I love most is that it’s a working space — a “creating space” as owner Katie Lincoln puts it. “The making atmosphere is very important to us. If you took away our workshop, the kiln, you’d be stealing the heart of the shop.”

The shop and gallery opened around the same time Katie was born. Her trailblazing mother, Mary Lincoln, began by creating the now-renowned Ardmore pottery, before inviting local artists to exhibit and sell their work alongside her own.

“Everything we stock is made in Ireland,” Katie explains, “and the sheer diversity of the products is remarkable, with work from over 150 artists and designers.”

Katie enjoys watching people’s expressions as they enter the shop, their effort to take in the wonderful mix of beautiful shapes and objects. “You can see they’re getting their bearings. We’ve tried to make it clearer with the signage by the door, but they’re invariably delighted by what they find here.”

The family decided against wholesale, which makes this the only place in the world to bag some authentic Ardmore pottery. 

Their newly designed website makes it perfect for Christmas gifts, but I heartily
recommend a visit, be it in summer or in winter, when you’ll escape the wind and the rain to find a crackling fire and a genuinely warm welcome inside. 

• Visit ardmorepottery.com

Yesterdays, Kilkenny

Window display Yesterdays, Kilkenny.

Kilkenny is a wonderfully designed city for any enthusiastic treasure seeker. Once I’ve dropped my bags and enjoyed a riverside stroll, Yesterdays is invariably my first stop.

This family-run business is aptly named; it truly feels like you’re being transported back in time. Owner Maeve Kenealy adds to the old-world ambience by furnishing the retail space with antique shop fittings, many of them bought in Cork. 

An old Georgian townhouse, the building originally belonged to her grandparents and once housed The Kilkenny Journal. So, it makes sense that a certain historical gravitas pervades every nook and cranny.

What’s more, the eclectic range of internationally sourced products comes with an attractive guarantee: you won’t find them anywhere else. “Myself and my husband Martin Smith do our best to keep our
products quirky and unique,” Maeve enthuses.

Well, they absolutely succeed, which is why Yesterdays makes the cut, standing alone as my sole Leinster entry. 

• Shop online at yesterdays.ie

Stone Mad Gallery, Kinsale

Owner of Stone Mad Gallery, Jill Brennen.

It’s difficult to miss Stone Mad Gallery in Kinsale. Its brightly coloured, flowered façade has become a regular photo opportunity for passers-by.

Its clientele, however, is decidedly local. California-born owner Jill Brennen felt that traditional Irish stock, or a shop playing Irish music, would be disingenuous for her. Instead, she hopes that people find their favourite piece of jewellery inside. This woman takes her jewellery seriously.

Everything is hand-sourced by Brennan from European cities like Paris, Luxembourg, Amsterdam, and Berlin. There’s something for everyone, from tribal pieces to eye-catching colour, to dainty gold-plated options. “I noticed in the early days, how people would come in with a tiny budget for jewellery, hoping to get a set to go with an expensive dress. I wanted to flip that.

“So, my jewellery is beautiful and well-made. It’s designed to be worn and enjoyed again and again, not donned for a one-off event, and thrown away.”

Jill Brennen built the business up bit by bit, starting with her own jewellery and candles. Now she’s surrounded by beautiful things that she’s clearly proud to sell.

“I’m picky. I choose only light earrings with good backs that won’t irritate the skin. I get emotional when I go to big events in Kinsale and see so many women with my jewellery on; it genuinely moves me.”

The quality of Jill’s stock means that Stone Mad hasn’t held a sale during all of its 25 years. Not bad for a woman at the age of 67 — who sounds more like someone younger, and who is only just getting started.

• To get a sense of Brennen’s eclectic stock, peruse stonemadgallery.com

Chalk and Easel, Ballinspittle

Chalk and Easel in Ballinspittle.

It seems fitting that we end our treasure trail at this calm oasis of a shop, because it’s a lullaby of a shopping experience.

Chalk and Easel is a beautiful mindful space filled with natural colours and fibres, clean functional lines, and a great deal of what the Scandinavians call hygge — a warm atmosphere and an enjoyment of the good things in life.

The half-yellow door opens on a glorious range of products, from the locally sourced La Bougie range to products from France, and beyond. There’s an absence of plastic throughout, all part of owner Emily Connell’s philosophy: buy less, buy better.

Unusual in a crafty gift shop, is the children’s section at the back, lined with colourful, wooden toys and books. Emily says she stocks items that work well, that are simple, and timeless.

“I think we need to turn off the what might the neighbours think part of our brains sometimes. We should avoid fads and trends which tend to result in overly designed pieces. I go for functionality every time.”

Emily’s approach certainly works, and I leave Chalk and Easel feeling nourished and relaxed. Like I said at the beginning — soul. 

• Shop their selection at chalkandeasel.ie