Islands of Ireland: Fires, storms, and tragedy at Kerry's Burnt Island
Burnt Island, County Kerry has seen fires, storms and drownings
Burnt Island may be so named due to the fires that occasionally ravage the national park at Killarney, County Kerry, such as the devastating one two years ago. It is situated on the western side of Lough Leane with just one other island there, Stag Island. It is just west of Ross Island but is hard to pick out against the backdrop of Tomies Wood. Moving towards Dinish Island and the entry to Muckross Lake, there is the curiosity of Derby’s Garden, which looks like it may once have been an island but now is just a group of trees whose roots are submerged.
This part of Lough Leane feels remote from the rest but on the kayak over from Ross Island a loud rushing sound can be heard to reconnect all the senses. This is O’Sullivan’s Cascade which crashes through the woods and plunges into the lake with a sometimes deafening roar.
The lakes have long been a magnet for visitors and the visit of Queen Victoria in 1861 was a reminder of the esteem in which it was held. Her visit was described in to-be-expected fawning language. The Freeman’s Journal reported that the party moved on to the west of Lough Lean and Burnt Island: “The Tomies and Glena stood up boldly from the dark waters, their sides clad with thick and verdant foliage and lifting on high their naked summits. The sounding of O’Sullivan’s Cascade falling from rock to rock in a wooded glen reached the ears. Stag Island, Burnt Island and Darby’s Garden were passed and the part passed the unsurpassed beauties of Glena Mountain.”
Though placid that day, other days on the lake can be extremely dangerous, as a touring boat with mainly American women stranded on Burnt Island discovered in 1894. A sudden squall blew up and the boat limped to Burnt Island where some of the party insisted on remaining the night rather than risk the choppy waters again.
The Freemans Journal reported that “the eight Robison Crusoes set about making the best of a bad job. A piece of rock having been selected as a background, the party gathered some dry wood, got together some logs, made a shed with these materials and covered it with grass and ferns.” The group settled down for the night but at 5am signals of distress in the shape of a pocket handkerchief attached to a lady’s garter and a long piece of wood were seen flying from the island. At this point, a boat was despatched and the group was brought back to shore.
16 March: St Fínán lobur (leper/infirm) (d 560). Founded #Innisfallen Lough Leane, "Lake of learning" #Kerry. Annals of Innisfallen written here; early Irish history! Where Brian Boru received education! & of Sord/Swords Abbey nr Dublin & Clonmore, Carlow https://t.co/ZfVAlSPn1Y pic.twitter.com/4D7VUtHjRA
— Irish History Bitesize! (@lorraineelizab6) March 16, 2023
At first sight, Burnt Island is identical to Stag Island: both are densely packed with the trees that make the national park famous — yew, arbutus, oak. As the kayak floats by the small island, something glints in the sun and on closer inspection is seen to be a plaque. It details a tragedy and loss of life that occurred there more than 100 years ago. In 1909 three members of the Hilton family drowned when their boat overturned. The family is commemorated by a simple plaque on the island.
However, there was also another tragedy there that year. A group of nine American, and English visitors with four boatmen set out to enjoy the pleasures of the lake. The boat was a new four-oar and supposedly manned by some of the best oarsmen in Killarney. Several boats were making their way back to Ross Castle when the weather broke. A witness described how “at Glen Bay, nearing Burnt Island, the Great Southern Boat took the lead, and immediately the sky darkened, and a heavy shower of rain fell, obscuring from view the occupants of the ill-fated boat”.
It was thought that the movement of passengers to avoid driving rain caused the boat to move broadside to the waves and it was immediately inundated and sank. All were lost.
: Kayak from Ross Castle. While permits are available to kayak on the lake, landing on the islands is discouraged. Permits are available at the National Parks and Wildlife Services on the Kenmare Road; gapofdunloetraditionalboattours.com/boat-tours;
: Freeman’s Journal, August 29, 1861; Kerry Sentinel, August 25, 1894; Freeman’s Journal May 20, 1902
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