Do you really need a special eye cream or will moisturiser do the job? We ask the experts

Is an eye cream ever really necessary?

With eye creams growing more and more expensive, one can’t help but wonder; are they necessary?

The first signs of ageing often become visible around the eyes. Good skin care for this area, some say, is indispensable. But is a special, separate eye cream necessary to remedy the effects? With eye creams growing more and more expensive, one can’t help but wonder; are they necessary, or will my facial moisturiser do?

“Eye creams aren’t necessary for everyone, but they can be helpful if you’re targeting specific concerns around the eyes, like puffiness, dryness, dark circles, or fine lines,” facialist and aesthetician Eavanna Breen says.

“The skin around the eyes is thinner and more delicate than the rest of the face, so you need to be careful with the ingredients you use there. For example, eye creams with retinol typically contain a lower dose compared to products for the rest of the face, since the area is more sensitive. 

For issues like puffiness and dark circles, some eye creams include ingredients like caffeine, which helps constrict blood vessels, or brightening agents to address dark circles. So, if you have a specific concern, an eye cream can be beneficial. 

Facialist and aesthetician Eavanna Breen

However, if you don’t have any noticeable issues or if you’re younger, using a hydrating serum like hyaluronic acid or just your regular moisturiser around the eye area may be enough.

“In the end, it really depends on the individual and their specific needs.”

Eye cream, as one would imagine, was created by brands by way of certain ocular needs. But instead of pivoting to topical creams, are there other ways to treat sagging and discolouration, and is there a prevention technique rather than a cure?

“In Chinese medicine, our liver opens into the eyes, so any dryness or redness can be related to our liver health,” says Victoria Yau, skincare brand Muihood’s in-house traditional Chinese medicine practitioner.

Victoria Yau, a Traditional Chinese Medicine practitioner

“In the Chinese medicine organ clock, the gallbladder (which is the brother of the liver) time is between 11pm and 1am, and liver hour is between 1am and 3am. This marks when the organs are most active. Hence, falling asleep before 11pm is helpful to achieve brighter and healthier skin. Eye bags can also be a sign of body fluid not being circulated properly, which would cause stagnation around the area. Therefore facial gua sha or massages can be a good way to reduce eye bags.”

While one could just slather a heavy face cream under their eyes, the risk of irritation stands.

“While eye creams are not a necessity per se, they can be hugely beneficial for certain people,” Dr Emma Fanning of Le Formulaire shares. 

Dr Emma Fanning of Le Formulaire

“When we talk about skincare necessities, the cornerstones of impactful skincare will always be the antioxidants and sunscreen you apply in the morning and the retinoids or vitamin A-based creams you apply at night. All of these have a role around the eye and if you can tolerate them, they should gently be applied to this area too.”

Beyond this, whether an eye cream is for you depends on your individual needs. If you have puffiness or sluggish drainage, a caffeine-based eye cream can be helpful (Ayuna The Eye Serum, €150, Floraison). 

If you suffer from fine lines, a peptide-based cream will help relax these (Revision Revox Line Relaxer, €185, drlauraclinic.ie).

Whether an eye cream is for you depends on your individual needs

When you understand that the skin around the eye is the thinnest on the body, often as thin as 1mm, specific eye retinoids to thicken the skin may be
preferable particularly when you also understand there are very little oil glands here, so the area can be prone to dryness (Alumier Retinol Eye Gel €84,  alumiermd.com). 

“Remember inskincare your needs should dictate the routine that’s right for you, so while I don’t always recommend a specific eye cream, they can help certain people reach their skin glow goals faster.”