Here's why people are ditching retinol - and what to use instead

Overusing retinol can lead to peeling, irritation, and excessive dryness

Unfortunately, retinol isn’t for everyone

Everybody seems to want to talk about retinol. Dermatologists recommend it to patients; influencers dedicate entire videos to it and TikTokers repeatedly make it go viral.

There’s good reason for this. When used correctly, retinol can be a game-changer. It can treat sun-related damage like dark spots and fine lines, as well as smooth out skin texture and kick-start collagen production. But, unfortunately, retinol isn’t for everyone; high concentrations can irritate the skin barrier, leaving skin scaly, red and irritated. And it’s not recommended for those who are pregnant or breastfeeding.

“Overusing retinol or using a retinol that is too strong for your skin can lead to peeling, irritation, and excessive dryness,” skincare expert and CEO and founder of Skin Formulas, Geraldine Jones, says. “In some cases it can lead to thinning of the skin if overused for a prolonged period of time.”

On top of this, a recent EU ruling has changed the future for retinoids (the umbrella term for vitamin A derivatives such as retinol and its chemical counterparts). Within its member states, skincare products for the face and neck sold over the counter can no longer contain more than 0.3% retinoids. (The thinking behind this is we should not be overexposing ourselves to vitamin A without proper supervision.)

As a result, brands are changing their formulas, meaning that those of us looking to use products with more than 0.3% retinoids from now on are snookered. But, there is hope, in the form of a number of alternatives.

What is retinal?

Short for retinaldehyde, retinal essentially does what retinol does, but faster.

“It is approximately ten times stronger than retinol,” Gillian MacMahon, Skincare Trainer for NeoStrata Ireland says. “Like retinol, retinal is a retinoid. But when it hits the skin, it converts to retinoic acid. Whereas, retinol, when applied to the skin, will convert to retinal first and then retinoic acid.”

In layman’s terms, it is a skin-rejuvenating superstar, one that can be great for use on blemish-prone and/or mature skin as it works to speed up the creation of new skin cells and encourages collagen production to plump and reduce the visibility of fine lines. It’s also generally better tolerated than retinol, making it a sensible choice for those with sensitive skin.

For those with particularly sensitive skin, however, two ingredients exist to rule them all.

“Bakuchiol is a plant-based retinol alternative,” Jones says. “It has soothing properties which help to comfort the skin and may reduce issues associated with sensitivity and reactivity. It is also an antioxidant and therefore helps fight signs of ageing, such as fine lines and loss of firmness by targeting free radicals. Skin Formulas Bakuchiol Serum (€70, skinformulas.ie) is an excellent retinol alternative for those with sensitive skin.”

Skin Formulas Bakuchiol Serum (€70, skinformulas.ie)

“PHA, polyhydroxy acid, provides gentle exfoliation to improve texture and tone, has humectant properties, is non-irritating and is ideal for sensitive skin types,” MacMahon shares.

“If you’re new to exfoliation, or if you have dull, reactive, dehydrated skin that is prone to redness, then PHAs are the perfect complement to your skincare routine. Neostrata PHA Renewal Pads (€36, millies.ie) are pre-soaked tonic pads which gently exfoliate dull skin buildup to uncover healthier-looking skin and reveal a more even tone and texture.”

Neostrata PHA Renewal Pads (€36, millies.ie)

Retinol alternatives at home

Patchology Serve Chilled™ On Ice Firming Eye Gels (5 Pairs/Box, €9.60, Boots.ie)

Formulated with peptides, cloudberry oil and bakuchiol, the under-eye patches provide fast-acting relief for puffy under-eyes.

Skingredients PreProbiotic Cleanse Hydrating Cleanser (€29, Meagher’s Pharmacy)

Formulated with prebiotics, probiotics and polyhydroxy (PHA), this cleanser is a staple for those with drier skin types.

this works deep sleep body whip (€32.20, SpaceNK.com)

A rich, buttery body cream with bakuchiol and this work’s famed Deep Sleep fragrance to ensure a restful night.

The Ordinary Retinal 0.2 Emulsion Serum (€17.90, cloud10beauty.com)

Trust The Ordinary to provide a great price for the quality. This is geared towards more experienced retinoid users. Use it at night, after cleansing, and be sure to use SPF30 or higher the next day (as you do already, right?)