The Skin Nerd: Feeding your skin from within for long-term skincare results
Professor Nicola Ralph: "Consume a varied diet containing plenty of colourful fruit/vegetables and a daily source of lean protein for skin repair"
When faced with a lacklustre complexion, many of us scour the shelves for a topical solution with the intention of correcting the issue as soon as possible. Whilst we all crave immediate results, dull, dehydrated and fatigued skin can be a sign that your diet needs examining, and this is one of the best places to start.
Yes, visible effects may take longer but enriching your diet with the right vitamins and nutrients is essential for long-term results. One of the obstacles that many face when it comes to feeding the skin from within is knowing exactly what nutrients the skin needs to function optimally. So I grabbed my notebook and pen and quizzed Professor Nicola Ralph, Dermatologist at the Institute of Dermatologists on the most important priorities when it comes to skin nutrition.
"A lot of studies on vitamins for skin health are inconclusive and further research is required to understand the direct correlation between topically applying or ingesting these vitamins and the health of your skin," explains Nicola.
"This being considered, the most important thing is that one consumes a healthy and varied diet to give the vitamins that your body needs to prevent and repair skin damage. Vitamins are divided into fat-soluble vitamins (ADEK) which are stored in the liver/ adipose tissue and therefore we do not require daily consumption and water-soluble vitamins (B & C) which are excreted daily therefore should be consumed daily:
Vitamin A (retinol) is one of the most popular skincare ingredients on the market as clinical evidence shows it reduces wrinkles and it also increases the rate at which the skin repairs itself. Vitamin A has many more vital bodily functions but when it comes to skin, we tend to use it topically and it is ideally used at nighttime. Slow introduction is required as it can cause irritation of the skin. One should also ensure to use a daily sunscreen when using topical retinoids. Internally, there are two forms of vitamin A you can eat: Direct vitamin A and beta-carotene. Direct vitamin A sources include liver and eel, whilst beta-carotene is found in spinach, green leafy veg, carrots and sweet potato.
Vitamin C is a well-known antioxidant and plays a role in collagen stimulation. There is evidence from some studies that it can limit damage from UV radiation therefore ideally is applied in the morning time. Food sources of vitamin C include broccoli, Kakadu plums and chilli peppers.
Vitamin D is vital for adequate bone health. We can stimulate Vitamin D production with regular sun exposure, however for those who do not expose the skin regularly/wear high SPF daily and for those of us who live in a climate with long Winters/dark days it is easy to become deficient in this vitamin. It can easily be replaced with a daily supplement of 10ug-25ug.
Vitamin E may also have some protective effects from UV damage and its role is an antioxidant for the skin.
Vitamin K plays a role in blood clotting and wound healing therefore is also essential in the diet. Again, the data on Vitamin K and skin health is limited but what we do know suggests that if one is deficient it may result in easy bleeding/bruising.’
Vitamin B is divided into 8 vitamins which are important/essential for bodily functions. Their functions range from creating energy from food, producing blood cells to maintaining healthy skin. Most commonly, Niacinamide is added to topical therapies for its anti-inflammatory properties, prevention of pigmentation and reduction of redness from inflammatory conditions such as acne and rosacea. Taken internally, you can get vitamin B3 from dairy products, meat, fish, grains, and green vegetables."
"This depends on which part of the world we live in, but in Ireland Vitamin D deficiency is most prevalent due to our climate (long winters with minimal UV exposure) and our fair skin, therefore we use high SPF to protect ourselves from UV radiation," says Nicola.
"Vitamin B12 and Folate are another common vitamin deficiency especially seen in the elderly and may present with fatigue as the commonest symptom. It is much less likely we would be deficient in Vitamin A, E, K as these are stored from the foods we eat in our fat reserve. Also, vitamin C deficiency is rare in developed countries such as Ireland."
Do visit your GP for a blood test if you are unsure.
Vitamin A deficiency — this can present as dry, thickened scaly skin but it is more common to notice eye issues such as night blindness and dryness of the eyes.
Vitamin C deficiency — this is rare but may present in the skin as easy bruising, corkscrew hairs and small red spots or papules at the follicular openings of the skin.
Vitamin D deficiency — the skin signs are not very specific; the skin may be dry and dull and if one suffers from other conditions such as acne/eczema it may worsen these conditions.
Vitamin K deficiency — easy bruising.
"Most importantly, you need to consume a varied diet containing plenty of colourful fruit/vegetables and a daily source of lean protein for skin repair," Nicola advises.
"It is also important not to eliminate food groups such as fat as this is also vital for healthy skin. For example, essential fatty acids (EFA) are needed for skin healing, normal skin function and radiance of the skin. Topically, we cannot replace vitamins if one is noted to be deficient from a blood test and so I recommend topical Vitamin A, C and B for its skin benefits such as anti-ageing properties."
‘I take Vitamin D every day as I never expose my skin to the sun without high SPF daily," reveals Nicola.
"I also take Vitamin C and Zinc, but this is more for its immune function rather than the direct effect of oral Vitamin C on the skin. Topically, I use retinol (vitamin A) each evening and I have 30% Vitamin C in a topical cream each morning as well as Niacinamide (B vitamin) added to my SPF each day and in my daily moisturiser. I do not take supplements specifically for Vitamin K (as I eat a lot of leafy greens) or Vitamin E.
For my patients who have had skin cancer and avoid the sun I recommend Vitamin D daily and for patients suffering with Telogen Effluvium (hair loss) I will check their vitamin levels to ensure they have no deficiency and then replace it as needed. Most people do not have lots of vitamin deficiencies — however the group at highest risk are middle-aged females therefore I do check bloods in this group if their symptoms may suggest a vitamin deficiency."
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