The Skin Nerd: Will lactic acid work for me, and does chocolate really cause spots?
Although our skin has a natural exfoliating process called proliferation, as we age, this process slows down and so exfoliating yourself can help to boost cell renewal.
Wintery weather, a buildup of dead skin cells and dehydration are all culprits for dull skin, but with the right ingredients and a little know-how, you can get your glow back way before the first buds of spring.
Wintertime can leave us feeling sluggish but to avoid a lacklustre complexion, you may need to give your skin a helping hand. Regular exfoliation is key to more radiant skin, but a considered approach is necessary to avoid irritation and damage to the skin barrier.
Although our skin has a natural exfoliating process called proliferation, as we age, this process slows down and so exfoliating yourself can help to boost cell renewal.
Regular readers of this column will be aware of my preference of chemical over manual exfoliation. My reasoning for this is that manual exfoliation (via gritty scrubs) can be traumatic for the skin barrier and is more likely to cause damage and irritation.
Chemical exfoliation, via the use of an exfoliating acid, is far more respectful to the moisture barrier and tends to produce more effective results – so it’s a win, win for the skin!
Not all exfoliating acids are built the same, and so it’s important to do your research before adding one to your regime. If you don’t currently use an exfoliating product, lactic acid should be on your radar.
Lactic acid is considered one of the most hydrating exfoliating acids. As one of the most well-known alpha-hydroxy acids, lactic acid works to improve the tone and texture of the skin by dissolving the “glue” that keeps dead skin cells attached to the skin's surface for a brighter complexion.
Use of lactic acid is not new – in fact, it dates to Ancient Egypt when Cleopatra indulged in milk baths which smoothed her skin thanks to the exfoliating acid within sour milk!
Although now there are several exfoliating acids available on the skincare market, lactic acid really comes into its own in the wintertime due to its humectant (water-binding) capabilities, which makes it ideal for dry or dehydrated skin. Often found in cleansers and toners, lactic acid has a larger molecular size than some of the other AHAs so it can't penetrate as deeply into the skin. This means that it has most of its exfoliating effects are at surface level, making it more tolerable for those with sensitive skin.
An exfoliating toner is a popular way to include exfoliating ingredients and can work alongside or instead of an exfoliating cleanser to gently encourage cell renewal.
Skingredients AHA Cleanse Brightening and Exfoliating Lactic Acid Cleanser (€31, theskinnerd.com) is a great active cleanser for dull, lethargic or pigmented skin.
For a brightened, lit-from-within complexion, I recommend that is it used every second or third night to avoid over-exfoliation and to be mindful that it is intended to be used as a secondary cleanse after you have removed the day’s work with a daily cleanser.
Providing gentle exfoliation with a base of squalene (an emollient), polyhydroxy and lactic acids, AHA helps the skin to retain moisture and helps to keep the skin barrier in check.
Other lactic acid-loaded favourites include Inkey List Lactic Acid 10% Serum and Medik8 Surface Radiance Cleanser .
As with any acid, it is important to use it as instructed by the manufacturer and to avoid use on red or irritated skin. Using too much of any one acid too often can lead to inflammation or irritation and so I suggest using your lactic acid product no more than 2-3 times a week.
While you need to take care not to over exfoliate, lactic acid can be used alongside many skincare ingredients and works particularly harmoniously with hydrators such as hyaluronic acid.
Those with acne or congested skin could alternate lactic acid with other exfoliants for a deeper clean but always patch test first and be aware of signs of over-use such as redness and irritation.
Congestion, fluctuating hormones, stress - blemishes can be triggered by an extensive list of things but is chocolate one of them?
Whilst there is no conclusive evidence that chocolate itself causes spots, the sugar inside your favourite bar could be to blame.
We all know that a healthy, balanced diet is crucial for skin health and overall wellbeing but too much sugar and processed foods can be particularly troublesome for your skin, with the potential to disrupt your gut microbiome and contribute to a breakout.
The dairy within a bar can also increase glucose and insulin levels in the bloodstream which can trigger inflammation and lead to breakouts.
There is some good news though – the main ingredient in chocolate – cocoa – is packed with antioxidants, which can neutralise oxidative damage and protect the skin from UV damage.
Experts believe that cocoa in its purest form has the most potency, so to get the maximum benefits, opt for dark chocolate, with at least 70% cocoa content.
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