The Succession deep-dive we all need: Let's talk about Shiv Roy's wardrobe choices

Shiv Roy’s dramatic rise to boardroom power was matched by her makeover but as she lost control of her position in the family, she also lost control of her wardrobe

Shiv Roy has made the journey from daughter to despot in training

Every so often a TV show comes along that becomes a must-see event. Season three of Succession is that. Since its 2018 debut on Sky/HBO the series has captivated audiences in their millions with its darkly comic take on a billionaire media mogul and his disappointing children.

And while initially, the cringingly challenging relationship between Logan and Kendall seemed central to all the action it has been the development and downfall of Shiv Roy that has been the most interesting to watch.

Shiv's wardrobe arc is as significant as her personal one. 

As Shiv’s story arc goes from leftist outsider in season one right through to Waystar Royco President in season three, her wardrobe too goes through a metamorphosis to reflect her journey from daughter to desperate despot in training.

In a show that places a huge emphasis on symbolism and subtlety it should come as no surprise that the wardrobe choices of each and every character have huge meaning. From Kendall’s tragic birthday chains to Roman’s dishevelled take on business formal, what the Roy family and their significant others wear is an important part of their character’s back story.

Sarah Snook as Siobhan Roy in season one of Succession.

In season one, back when Shiv Roy had both morals and a job outside the family firm, her hair was long and loosely waved, her palette autumnal and her clothes soft and feminine. She worked as a political consultant to Gil Eavis a Bernie Sanders-esque politician, a man so far from her father’s own moral low-ground that he almost didn’t go to his daughter’s wedding.

Her politico power suits of the first season were straight out of ‘dress for the office 101’ and came from brands like Theory. At about $800 a suit they’re not cheap but they’re a far cry from a billionaire mogul wardrobe she favours now.

Her wardrobe in season two was carefully curated to show career elevation. 

By the time season two rolled around she had traded her soft sweaters for a simple, yet stark wardrobe of high waisted monochromatic trouser suits paired with buttoned-up silk blouses and expensive turtlenecks. Her look is carefully curated to reflect both her new job and her familial ambitions.

Speaking about Shiv’s new wardrobe, Succession’s costume designer Michelle Matland said: “She doesn’t want to be identified, especially in season one, as one of the family. She wants to be an individual. She wants to be identified as a power in the room.” By season two Matland was describing Shiv’s new style as her “new armour”.

The most striking part of Shiv’s transformation is her new power bob, a sharp cut paired with an impeccable blow dry – you just know a stylist comes to her Manhattan apartment every morning at 7 am.

Shiv’s new wardrobe is a steep step up from her Theory days and is made up of heritage brands like Max Mara and Ralph Lauren mixed with pieces from younger, though no less expensive, brands like The Row - the fashion label owned by Mary Kate and Ashely Olsen where a pair of trousers will set you back a cool $1,300.

Dresses reminiscent of Ivanka Trump are plentiful in Shiv's wardrobe. 

The slick tonality of this new wardrobe elicits comparisons to another dear daughter keen for her father’s approval: Ivanka Trump. Fashion fans will remember Ivanka’s arrival to the White House heavily featured tonal dressing, an immaculate blow-dry and a love of an expensive trouser suit. Power dressing for power daughters needs a wide leg and a strong-shouldered blazer.

Shiv’s transformation from left-leaning politico to Daddy’s right-hand woman was a hit with viewers and fashion fans alike and as the second season began online searches for wide-leg trousers rose by 133%.

succession sarah snook shiv roy season three

Fashion means a lot to these characters and what they’re wearing reveals a lot about them. Shiv’s husband Tom Wambsgans, a midwestern social climber, favours very expensive suits and ties with matching pocket squares. He knows the value of the right uniform and early in his relationship with his somewhat protégé Cousin Greg asks: "Forgive me but are we talking to each other on the poop deck of a majestic schooner? Is the salty brine stinging my weather-beaten face? No? Then why the f*ck are you wearing a pair of deck shoes, man?"

The dress she wore to Kendall's 40th birthday was a sell-out.

And while there are some fans that are obsessed with everything Shiv wears, most notably the green satin asymmetric wrap dress she wore to Kendall’s 40th birthday party that even at $1851 was quick to sell out, many have noticed that in season three her wardrobe, like her character, felt a little off.

As her power plays became more desperate her clothes became uncomfortable too. Her expensive suits don’t fit quite right, the colours are no longer working with her scarlet hair. She was falling apart in a very visual way.

Irish stylist Catherine Condell noticed a change in the styling from episode one: “Nothing this season looks terribly good on her. If wardrobe are deliberately dressing her that way it’s spot on!” 

Perhaps the message is that Shiv is just too busy to care about her styling and takes receipt of designer clothes that personal shoppers chose on her behalf and are almost perfect. But while downtown corporate dressing is easy if you throw enough money at it, the clothes of the European vacations are trying too hard and Shiv’s dresses for her mother’s Tuscan wedding look like the bizarre choice of someone who has watched The Talented Mr Ripley but never been to Italy.

Is Shiv too busy being corporate to care about style?

The Roy offspring hold a tenuous grasp of both business and their personal relationships and as Shiv’s attempt to gain control of the family business spirals out of control so too does her wardrobe until the very final shot of the final episode of the season when she receives Tom’s Judas kiss dressed as the slightly sweaty mother of a communicant on a hot May day in a hat secured on her friends WhatsApp group.