Cica skincare can help heal sunburn and more this summer

Seek out cica products to help with rosacea, psoriasis, scrapes and sunburn
Cica skincare can help heal sunburn and more this summer

Avoid fragrance and non-fatty alcohol for irritated skin; look for cica skincare for a calming action

Sunburn is always better prevented than cured but we are especially eager to get outside this summer and accidents happen. Aloe vera gel is the traditional aftersun remedy but there is a whole product category inspired by Korean skincare that can heal the burn and more. 'Cica' is an abbreviation of the word 'cicatrisation' — the process of wound healing to produce scar tissue, usually itself a normal part of healing. Moisturisers, serums and masks with cica in their names can be helpful for many uncomfortable inflammatory skin issues, from rosacea and psoriasis to one-off sunburns and scrapes. Cica is frequently used synonymously with the herb centella asiatica, probably because so many (though not all) cica products contain this superstar ingredient.

I try to use some centella asiatica every day because calm skin just goes about its business better. Centella has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant elements including triterpenic acids and a family of saponins called centelloids. These are organic chemicals that fight off free-radical damage and reduce the oxidative stress skin goes through in a day. Centella is not just healing but moisturising to the top layer of skin. This hydration has an instant smoothing effect. If you are prone to redness or see pigmentation while your skin is healing then centella — and cica skincare with centella — is your friend. Aloe vera, panthenol, shea butter and oat extracts are all skin soothers to look out for in cica products. Fragrance and non-fatty alcohol are ingredients to avoid.

Cosrx Hydrium Centella Asiatica Aqua Soothing Ampoule, €29.45 at lookfantastic.ie
Cosrx Hydrium Centella Asiatica Aqua Soothing Ampoule, €29.45 at lookfantastic.ie

Korean brand, Cosrx, does a number of cica products, including a sheet mask, cleanser, moisturiser and serum. I especially like the refreshing feel and traceless finish of Cosrx Hydrium Centella Asiatica Aqua Soothing Ampoule, €29.45 at lookfantastic.ie, which goes on as lightly as water. There will never be a bad skin day this does not suit. You may remember from the height of the K-Beauty trend that an ampoule contains a serum or essence. In this case it’s closer to the latter. Hydrium is moisturising but will not make skin greasy or leave makeup patchy. People with acne and some forms of rosacea may find balms and rich moisturisers uncomfortably heavy — so something this dewy is a tonic.

La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Soothing Face and Body Balm, €12.99, is very good at protecting the moisture barrier and reducing irritation. It is a rich balm — you may not like how it feels on the face, but it is very comforting to dry and stinging skin. The formula has a centelloid called madecosside, as well as panthenol (Vitamin B5) and shea butter. It is fragrance and alcohol free and very stably package. There is a version of this product with SPF50.

Bioderma Cicabio Cream SPF 50+, €11 at selected pharmacies
Bioderma Cicabio Cream SPF 50+, €11 at selected pharmacies

SPF50 creams with great skincare ingredients are a no-brainer. Bioderma Cicabio Cream SPF 50+, €11 at selected pharmacies, contains asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid (all components of centella asiatica), as well as the antioxidants resveratrol and hyaluronic acid. Sun protection is valuable skincare in itself but through these extras, this cream is not only protecting skin from sun spots with UV filters but with the kind of free-radical defence that can also stop such pigmentation developing over time.

Embryolisse Laboratories Cicalisse SOS Restorative Cream, €10.40 at cultbeauty.com
Embryolisse Laboratories Cicalisse SOS Restorative Cream, €10.40 at cultbeauty.com

Embryolisse Laboratories, the popular French pharmacy brand, has a cica range that does not use centella and is instead reliant on acexamic acid, another antioxidant that helps cicatrisation. Embryolisse Laboratories Cicalisse SOS Restorative Cream, €10.40 at cultbeauty.com, has this ingredient a host of great moisturising antioxidants, including Vitamin E and cottonseed, almond and apricot oils. Unlike Embryolisse’s signature Lait Crème Concentre, is has no perfume. Again, this is a great choice for the whole family and helpful for sunburn.

Avène’s Cicalfate collection has no centella but is both protective and healing through other ingredients. For example, at least one study suggests that castor oil assists the cicatrisation process, and there is lots of this ingredient in Avène Cicalfate Restorative Lip Cream, €7. Sucralfate helps to facilitate skin recovery process by isolating lesions from external aggressors; zinc sulphate helps to promote and maintain a healthy skin environment for optimal recovery; and zinc oxide helps to protect from external aggressors (though it should not be used as a substitute for broad-spectrum SPF). Sunburn may not often affect your lips but the area's exceptionally delicate skin (which is really just mucosa) still need protection from UV radiation and help recovery from exposure.

 

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