The Skin Nerd: Pro-ageing skincare shows the beauty of growing older

Let’s ditch the 'anti-ageing' approach to our skincare and be kinder to our skin

We can't stop skin ageing but we can lessen its effects if we introduce protective, pro-ageing skincare ingredients into our routine.

Pro-ageing is a sentiment that I can really get behind. We should celebrate getting older as it is a gift that many are not granted, instead of adopting an attitude that signs of ageing are an enemy we should “combat” or “attack” – words commonly used in the beauty industry. To me, a pro-ageing approach to skincare encourages us to follow a regimen that aims to protect and support skin health.

Our skin will age as we grow older: it is an inevitable, genetically determined process known as intrinsic ageing. This involves dead skin cell removal and skin cell turnover rates slowing down, our natural stores of collagen, hyaluronic acid and ceramides depleting, and elastin (which keeps our skin firm) losing its snap back. Therefore, we start to notice fine lines, dark spots, and skin sagging. Exposure to external aggressors such as UV rays and pollution can speed up the ageing process, otherwise known as extrinsic ageing.

SPF is your insurance

Naturally, we cannot stop skin ageing but we can lessen its effects if we introduce protective, pro-ageing skincare ingredients into our routine. First up, broad-spectrum SPF! You might be surprised to hear that UV exposure accounts for 80% of skin ageing, which can easily be avoided if you apply a daily broad-spectrum SPF. I like to see SPF as skin insurance: it is our invisible parasol that shields skin from the sun’s damaging UV rays.

Now, it is important to choose a broad-spectrum SPF because it will protect against harmful UVB (which causes sunburn) and UVA rays (which causes premature skin ageing). The Murad City Skin Broad Spectrum SPF 50 (€70, theskinnerd.com), protects against UVA, UVB, blue light (emitted from screens), infrared, and pollution which makes it a fabulous choice. The Irish Cancer Society state that ½ teaspoon is enough to cover your face, neck, and ears, and that you should reapply every 2 hours if you are in direct sunlight – more so, if you are an oilier hooman that finds products slip off quicker.

Use science to your advantage

Antioxidants are a skincare essential for protecting against free-radical damage. Without getting too nerdy, free radicals are unstable molecules that steal electrons from healthy cells and cause oxidative stress. When skin enters a state of oxidative stress our collagen supplies deplete, cell repair slows down, and an inflammatory response is triggered. These can contribute to fine lines, loss of elasticity and hyperpigmentation. Antioxidants neutralise free radical activity by giving the unstable molecules a spare electron – they are our skin’s heroes!

Antioxidants come in many forms, but vitamin A is my personal favourite. In fact, I would go as far as to say that vitamin A is my skin’s soulmate! It will provide antioxidant protection and speed up cell renewal rates (which slows down as we age) to reveal brighter, smoother skin. However, vitamin A should be introduced to the skin slowly as it is a powerful active ingredient. The Environ Skin EssentiA Vita-Antioxidant AVST Moisturiser 1 (€57, theskinnerd.com), contains low levels of vitamin A for your skin to build tolerance, as well as vitamin C which bolsters collagen synthesis for plump, firm skin.

Incorporating SPF and antioxidants into your daily skincare regimen will not eradicate signs of ageing but they will protect skin from the harmful external aggressors that can speed up the process. I honestly believe that skin in all its forms is beautiful – and a few tiny lines don’t take away from that.