KASSL Editions and the quest for the perfect men's jacket
KASSL Editions ventured into menswear for the first time last October with a capsule collection of fisherman coats, jackets, and gilets.
What makes a good coat? There are endless options to choose from at diametrically opposed prices from the cheap and cheerful to the indulgently luxurious, an expansive list of materials, and a variety of fabrications. But how do you find the best one?
Bart Ramakers set about resolving that question in 2017 with the launch of his outerwear brand KASSL Editions.
Three years into the business, KASSL Editions ventured into menswear for the first time last October with a capsule collection of fisherman coats, jackets, and gilets.
While the brand’s origins are in womenswear, menswear seemed like the natural progression after special capsules with various luxury retailers. The unisex appeal of the pieces was not lost on male observers who began to reach out to the brand directly to see if they could buy something in their size.
The quest for the perfect jacket started with cutting the right silhouette appropriate for a broad range of men, the same philosophy that guided their original designs for women. The relaxed shoulders slope downwards into a roomy sleeve that almost grazes the knuckles.
The silhouette is wide-cut with the hem landing below the waist, at the upper thigh, or below the knee, depending on the style. Ultimately, it brings Ramakers to the concept of a “democratic cut,” an equally important consideration.
He explained: “It’s great that my mom and dad can share a coat and that I can wear it as well,” stating that you can wear them slouchy and oversized, or more snug if you size down.
The range orbits around restrained, muted shades like camel, khaki, chocolate-brown, and black — but the simplicity of design belies the hidden qualities that make the jackets so special. From glue-sealed seams to water-resistant materials, most of them will feature storm flaps for breathability, each jacket imbued with an industrial edge.
He figured the style, fabric, and colour should be timeless and durable.
Ramakers found the response to the first men’s collection interesting. “I thought it would be slightly safer and less daring, but we’ve seen that some of the most exciting pieces, like a padded V-neck, ‘Original Oil’ cotton-blend coat, and the ‘Original’ wax-coated matte coat, sold well.”
KASSL Editions started over lunch.
While visiting New York, Bart Ramakers met a friend who was wearing a vintage fisherman’s coat from a Dutch flea market. Instantly besotted by the jacket, its universal appeal, and clean lines, he insisted on bringing it with him back to Amsterdam.
Ramakers, who is also the founder and CEO of Parrot, an international fashion agency, showed his friends, Ilse Cornelissens and Tim van Geloven, owners of concept store Graanmarkt 13 in Antwerp. They shared his love for the jacket and its potential for a label. Later, Camille Serra joined the team to design the jackets.
They enlisted Joseph Koch from Kassel, Germany, with a single mission: making the contemporary interpretation of the vintage fisherman’s coat. Koch runs a family-owned apparel manufacturing company that produces everything from the German police force and fire service uniforms to fencing clubs in Austria, Germany, and Switzerland. With a background in outerwear that must perform accordingly, Koch was the right man for the job.
(KASSL Editions develops the majority of their samples in Amsterdam, while coats and bags are developed in Kassel, Germany, and produced in Poland by the same company that takes care of the development.)
In light of lockdown, our wardrobes have witnessed a seismic shift. With remote working, clothes function differently. Many have abandoned the classic uniform in favour of one that comforts them. If clothing items operated on the stock market: sweatpants, slippers, tactile knitwear, wide-cut trousers, pyjama-dressing hold more currency than ever before; suits, ties, and formal shoes are down.
However, Ramakers is confident that outerwear is still something worth investing in. While lockdowns resigned us to our homes, he said it forces us to go out in a different way. In a past life, like many, he would have spent his evenings grabbing drinks or going to a restaurant with friends. Now, he takes an evening walk, throwing on a hoodie and a coat from his brand.
“I think the pandemic is definitely a time when people buy wardrobe staples and pieces that last and that are not super formal.”
“KASSL Editions’ outerwear provides the wearer with a second skin intended to last a lifetime which lends itself perfectly to the high/low dressing trend which feels very relevant for the times we are living in now,” said Damien Paul, head of menswear at luxury retailer matchesfashion.com, one of the brand’s key wholesale partners.
“On one hand, you put your KASSL on and you instantly look more dressed up, because it gives you this attitude. On the other hand, you can just as easily wear it with a casual look, because it has a comfortable fit and a relaxed appeal to it," said Ramakers.
KASSL Editions is a simple proposition. Their jackets are quiet but not mute, they are simple in style but carefully considered in the design. They offer functional minimalism. That said, Ramakers isn’t beholden to minimal design.
“I personally love escapism and anything that is bold and comes with feathers or sequins. I think it’s great that it’s there alongside all of the minimal stuff.
“What we do at KASSL Editions is however very different. We do one thing and that we do that very well. We love to create items of great quality that become even more beautiful over time.”
To answer an earlier question, a good coat is forever.
“We hope that customers cherish them, use them for layering and that it becomes a part of their wardrobe favorites,” he said. “At least that’s what we hope for.”
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