Wine: Michel Torino Colleccion Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina — €10.99
Given how important exports are to the country and how many Argentinians are of Irish descent, the least we can do is drink some of their wines.
In January the Peso was devalued by 20% and interest rates are now approaching 30% according to The Economist, and added to this is the fact that 2014 is proving a difficult vintage with volumes expected to drop by about a fifth.
The key to quality in Argentina is altitude. While Chile and California can simply move a little closer to the coast to pick up some cool Pacific breezes, Argentina’s winemakers simply go a little further up the Andes.
The best Malbecs from Argentina easily surpass the best that France can produce in my experience, although you will find the occasional Cahors worth buying.
Mendoza is the main wine region and supplies the bulk of Argentine wines imported into Ireland. Malbec can vary in flavour depending on where it is grown but in general the higher the elevation the more acidity, the richer the colour, and the more structured and complex the wine.
Malbec produces deeply coloured wines with a rich plum flavour and good acidity and structure. It is true that even at their best they rarely have the finesse of the finest Cabernet or Merlot wines, but they are a pleasure to drink.
Torrontes is another grape that is only really found in quantity in Argentina and is well worth trying with spicy food or as an aperitif. I didn’t recommend any Torrontes wines below but most of the producers mentioned have one worth trying. You will also find interesting Syrah, Bonarda (of Italian origin), Chardonnay and of course Sauvignon Blanc.
Finally watch out for the El Comandante wines of Dubliner Tom Lynch which are widely available.
Flying Enterprise Cork, No 21 Midleton, Ardkeen Stores Waterford, Redmonds Ranelagh, Baggot St Wines
Michel Torino is one of the most reliable inexpensive Argentinian producers with all the wines in the range showing value. The entry level Malbec is medium-bodied has typical soft juicy fruit with a hint of smoke and lots of plums on the palate.
Bradleys, O’Briens, SuperValu, Redmonds, independents
This is made with 30% Corvina (the main grape in Valpolicella/Amarone) but what is intriguing is the grapes have been dried as they would be for Ripassa and re-fermented with the local Malbec to produce a lovely ripe fruity style with the Corvina adding extra texture and aromas.
O’Donovans, World Wide Wines, Vineyard Galway, Drink Store Manor St, Nolans Clontarf
Don Aparo is the entry level range of Pascual Toso, another reliable Argentinian producer. Argentina grows a lot of Chardonnay and grows it well (better than Sauvignon Blanc in my view). This is dry and aromatic with good melon and citrus flavours and not a little complexity.
JJ O’Driscolls Ballinlough, O’Sullivans Blarney, Eldons Clonmel, Shiels Malahide, McHughs, Grenhams Balinasloe
Produced by Bodegas la Rosa which was founded 1892 but is now owned by Penaflor who own a number of wineries in Argentina. This offers a good example of why the world loves Malbec — dense, concentrated dark plum fruit balanced with acidity and freshness that lingers on the palate.
Wines on the Green/Celtic Whiskey Shop, McCabes, Blackrock
Mendel’s winemaker Robert de la Mota is one of the most respected in Argentina and his Malbecs are very highly rated. His Semillon has a fine aromatic lemon-cream aroma, with some good mineral acidity and a rich mouth-feel on the palate. Semillon is a rarity in Argentina but on this evidence others should be following de la Mota’s lead.
JJ O’Driscolls Ballinlough, World Wide Wines, Florries Tramore, Hollands Bray, good independents nationwide
Bodegas Callia makes wines at entry level up to premium. The Reservado range (now called Lunaris thanks to the EU) is produced in San Juan at around 900metres above sea level. The Malbec had very good chocolate and plum flavours and a slightly smoky finish and their Torrontes is also worth trying.
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