Lidl Morgon — €10.99
If you find yourself thinking too much about wine I recommend a bottle of Beaujolais, or a visit to Kelly’s Resort Hotel in Rosslare where Bill Kelly has created one of the best sourced (and best value) wine lists in the country. He holds regular wine tasting evenings with his producers.
On a recent trip I found myself drinking a bottle of Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape with a perfectly roasted suckling pig with caramelised crispy skin with a roasted peach on the side. Normally I take notes when drinking wines of this quality but I got so lost in the pleasure of the experience I forgot to.
Earlier I had experienced a supremely pleasurable tasting of the Beaujolais wines of Dominique Piron which Kellys have imported for a number of years. From his blackberry, chocolate and cherry scented Morgon to his caramel and violet scented Moulin à Vent and his strawberries and red-currant flavoured Brouilly.
Many of us still associate the region with the bubblegum and raspberry juice flavoured Beaujolais Nouveau wines released on the third Thursday in November. Thankfully Nouveau is on the decline and Piron told me there is a new energy beginning to show itself in the region with new restaurants, and a number of new small wineries being taken on by ambitious young people.
Beaujolais is made from the much-maligned Gamay, a grape that was banned from the realm of the Dukes of Burgundy at the end of the 14th Century. What Gamay lacks in subtlety it easily compensates with its innate charm. Simply put, Beaujolais is about pleasure.
Below are two recommendations from Spar which has put good work into sourcing inexpensive wines in recent years.
Lidl
There are very few Beaujolais wines priced under €15 and this is not a bad introduction to the region, although it does pale a little in comparison to the Morgons of Dom Piron. Nevertheless this has some light cherry fruit flavours and a little of the Morgon structure. Aldi’s Fleurie is also worth a shot.
Spar
Nothing to do with Beaujolais a wine I have been meaning to mention. A blend of Grenache and Syrah with classic spicy black and red fruit aromas and a sweet fruit-driven palate. This is a good example of what the Languedoc does best – ripe fruit-driven wine at an inexpensive price.
Spar
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is still flying off the shelves, despite the fact that they are now generally relatively expensive wines. This is a bargain however, and for under a tenner delivers most of the things you would expect – fresh gooseberries and apples on the nose, bright fresh palate and lingering lime and citrus.
Marks & Spencer
Floral, fragrant Fleurie is easily the best represented Beaujolais in Ireland and most are worth a punt (e.g. Drouhin, Duboeuf). The M&S version has ripe strawberry aromas with cherry and a touch of cocoa also evident, soft and light on the palate with fine light acidity and freshness. Eminently drinkable and relatively good value (for Fleurie) this is occasionally on special offer at €12.
Fallon & Byrne
Part Morgon, part AC Beaujolais, from bio-dynamic producer Marcel Lapierre whose son Mathieu is at the helm since his dad’s death in 2011. The estate is farmed bio-dynamically and wine making is by “natural” techniques. This has intense juicy fruit with aromas of cherry pie, bitter cherry flavours on the palate and stewed fruits and extra cherry on the finish.
Tesco
Juliénas is one of the lesser known Cru villages and the second furthest north (after St Amour) on a clay and sandy granite soil. Fine floral and red fruit aromas with a lovely mouth-feel and richly fruited elegance on the palate. This is another wine that sometimes goes on special offer so snap it up if you see it.
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