Chateau Maris Old School Rouge, Minervois, France — €14.99
There are a number of events and tastings throughout the country with a dozen or so shops involved (e.g. Fallon & Byrne, World Wide Wines, The Corkscrew) and up to 40 participating restaurants, including Ballymaloe, Café Paradiso, Jacques and Chapter One.
Pascal Rossignol of the excellent Le Caveau in Kilkenny is the driving force behind many of the events and you can find out more by logging on to his website at lecaveau.ie/real-wine-month-april-2014/
Natural wines are the fashion in Paris and London, especially in wine bars frequented by hipsters and the under 35s (eg, Le Verre Volé). Defining a “natural wine” is difficult as some are more natural than others, but generally you can assume organic farming methods, wild yeasts and no added sulphur. All wines contain natural sulphites but not adding sulphur runs the risk of stinky, oxidised undrinkable wines so this is a very risky business.
Biodynamic viticulture is organic but involves the philosophy of Rudolf Steiner and a planting calendar which splits months into root, fruit, leaf and flower days and is based on star constellations with organic sprays and treatments depending on the day. There seems to be evidence organic viticulture gives stronger vines and better fruit, but it is expensive and risky as there are lots of vine diseases. Pesticide residue is not something any of us want so the trend is towards less spraying.
* Real Wine Tastings: Baggot St. Wines (April 17), Fallon & Byrne (April 24), World Wide Wines (April 25).
* Vielle Fermé Tutored Tasting — JJ O’Driscoll Ballinlough, Thursday, April 17, 2-6pm — 021-4292194
* Real Food and Wine Dinner Café Paradiso Cork, Monday, April 28 — info@cafeparadiso.ie — tel: 021-4277939, €60
JJ O’Driscoll’s, 1601 Kinsale, Deveney’s Dundrum, Fallon and Byrne, D6 Harold’s Cross
A biodynamic natural wine that needs a few moments to aerate — pour a glass and leave it for 90 seconds to allow any sulphur aromas to dissipate. A blend of 90% Syrah and 10% Grenache, with soft, easy-drinking black spicy fruit, good mouth feel and a slightly smoky finish.
O’Donovan’s, Fields of Skibbereen, Morton’s of Galway
This is a good seller for O’Donovan’s and imported by Mary Pawle, who only imports certified organic and biodynamic wines. Lively, fruit-driven style with black and red fruit flavours, ripe and well made, and a good match for spicy dishes, tomato based pasta sauces or red meats.
Le Caveau, Fallon & Byrne, World Wide Wines
Gran Cerdo (Great Pig) is a natural wine made with whole bunch fermentation, no filtration or stabilisation, and minimal sulphur. This has juicy, spicy cherry and earth aromas, with good colour and nice, vibrant flavours. Interesting mix of floral and stony mineral flavours on the finish.
Le Caveau Kilkenny, World Wide Wines, Waterford, Fallon & Byrne, Dublin.
Made from organically grown Ciliegiolo grapes, from vines that are at least 40 years old. Ciliegiolo is a native Tuscan grape, closely related to Sangiovese and can be found in some Chianti blends and in parts of Umbria. Bright, medium-bodied juicy style with good freshness and structured fleshy fruit flavours.
Terroirs of Donnybrook, Bradleys, Mannings of Ballylickey, Little Greengrocer of Kilkenny
Made by South African couple, Caro and Sean Feely, in Bergerac, in south-west France (beside Bordeaux). This is a blend of 70/30 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon organically grown grapes, with some nice apple and lemon aromas and a creamy Semillion finish.
Quay Co-Op Cork, Organico in Bantry
I have praised the Albet i Noya wines, from Penedès, before and was intrigued to try their “no-added-sulphite” Xarel-lo (normally found in Cava), especially as it is more than a year old. Distinct, apple and pineapple aromas with floral touches, citrus, and apple on the palate, with some weight and structure and holding up remarkably well.
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