Wine: Toro Loco Reserva

NOW that we can get the same vegetables and fruit in the supermarket in January or July we have lost much of our instincts for eating seasonally.

Game, however, is the exception as it is illegal to hunt most game birds before Nov 1.

I mention this because certain wines seem to have a particular affinity with game and I look forward to finding new matching combinations this time every year. A visit to Knockranny House in Westport opened up some new possibilities, however, thanks to the creativity of chef Seamus Commons and sommelier Nick Faujour.