Monastier Sauvignon Blanc, Cotes de Gascogne

THERE was a time when around 70% of the wine we bought was from France but those days are long gone.

France is well down the volume table nowadays but still has a powerful influence on the world of wine and with good reason.

Chile and Australia may be the two countries we buy most of our wine from but virtually all the wine we drink from those countries is made using French grape varieties. The benchmark wine for almost all those grapes is French.

The exception to this is Malbec which is arguably much more interesting from Argentina than it ever is from Cahors and although the grape is grown in many parts of Bordeaux it is only ever a blending ingredient.

Some would say that New Zealand has stolen the Sauvignon Blanc crown from the French and it is true that I have tasted many wonderful bottles from the likes of Hunters and Nautilus. However I find the strong asparagus aromas in many lesser examples very off-putting and would probably choose a bottle of flinty mineral Sancerre if given the choice.

There are a few bottles of the late Didier Dagueneau’s sauvignon based Silex (from Pouilly Fumé) still around if you want to taste the ultimate Sauvignon Blanc. I tasted the 1994 Silex last Christmas and it had extraordinary complexity and depth and was world’s away from anything I have tasted from New Zealand. The Vintry in Rathgar has a bottle or two if you are curious and have €100 to spare.

So while we will continue to look to France for benchmark wines don’t forget that regional France can offer many charms. The Appellation Controllée laws ensure that obscure varieties such as Petit Manseng in Jurancon or Mauzac in Limoux are still in healthy production.

Bordeaux from the 2009 or 2010 vintages are well worth trying as is anything from the South West Rhone or Languedoc. Dunnes Stores have a French sale running until Oct 14 and I feature some highlights below.

Best Value under €10

Monastier Sauvignon Blanc, Cotes de Gascogne — €8.00

Stockist: Dunnes

Gascony is one of my top tips for fragrant crisp white food wines. This had ripe apple, floral and fragrant lemon aromas with a fresh soft palate containing no harsh edges, and a decent citrus kick of acidity on the finish. Supremely drinkable.

Monastier Chardonnay, Pays d’Oc — €8.00

Stockist: Dunnes

Chardonnay has been rather neglected by Irish consumers haunted by memories of the oaky Aussie versions from the 1990s. This has melon and tropical fruit aromas but crisp fresh edges a dry finish making it perfect for a big bowl of Roaring Water Bay or Bantry Mussels.

Marquis de Pennautier Viognier, Pays d’Oc 2011 — €10.00

Stockist: Dunnes

Viognier is the great grape of Condrieu in the Northern Rhone but Viognier from the Languedoc is a lot more affordable. Peach, apricot and honeysuckle on the nose, soft rounded palate with some nice richness and depth on the palate. A little lacking in acidity but still very pleasurable.

Best Value under €20

Chateau La Pirouette Cru Bourgeois 2009 — €11.50

Stockist: Dunnes

One of only a couple of wines from the fine 2009 Bordeaux vintage in the sale. Black fruit aromas with touches of cedar and pencil parings, soft ripe style but with some depth and lingering fragrant forest fruits on the finish.

Chateau Margès Graves Rouges 2010 — €13.50

Stockist: Dunnes

The Graves region is just south of the city of Bordeaux on the left bank of the river Garonne and is considered the birthplace of red Bordeaux. This had fine cassis aromas and in a ripe fragrant style with violet-scented fruit evident from first sniff to its lingering finish. Probably my favourite wine in the tasting.

Vacqueyras Les Salles 2011 — €14.50

Stockist: Dunnes

Vacqueyras is a Cru in the Southern Rhone not far from the villages of Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas. Vacqueyras is typically more vigorous than elegant but in this wine I found lovely fragrant ripe plums and prunes on the nose, a soft juicy palate with some fine structure, and yes, elegance.