Weekend wine with Blake Creedon

WHAT do you think the word ‘natural’ means?

I’ve begun to wonder what the term suggests to consumers after it cropped up in a TV advert for a brand of ham, puzzlingly described as ‘natural’, and again at two recent wine tastings.

But I have already tried three purportedly natural wines (that is, made without the addition of sulphites) on the Irish market — two stocked by O’Brien’s and one by O’Donovan’s. To my palate, all three fell on both of my two fundamental questions (Is this any good?