Weekend wine with Blake Creedon

Late last year multinational drinks giant Diageo sold Gilbey’s, its Irish wine distribution division, to Tipperary-based drinks distributor, Gleeson.

The move is said to make Gleeson the biggest firm in the Irish wine wholesale distribution market.

Just like other big importers and wholesalers, you could characterise Gleeson’s line-up of wines as having two separate identities.

On the one hand, they have the agency for some popularly-priced wines, many of them well-known names, or even mass-market brands which sell by the truckload.

These include Santa Rita, Blossom Hill, Laurent Perrier and Yellow Tail.

On the other hand, they sell more upmarket wines to restaurants (and in even smaller quantities to independent wine specialists and off-licences). Gleeson incorporating Gilbey’s also markets soft drinks, including Tipperary Spring Water and Finches — and a highly credible portfolio of beers, including Duvel, Warsteiner, Weihenstephaner and Estrella Damm.

The firm held a portfolio tasting at the Guinness Storehouse recently — I reckon it to have been the biggest of its type ever in this country.

But never mind the zize, what about the quality? Well, it’s a pretty impressive list to say the least, boasting some old favourites of this column, such as St Hallett and Knappstein in Australia; Hunter’s from New Zealand; Austria’s Laurenz V, as well as extensive lists of wines from quality producers in Bordeaux and Italy.

* The Twelve, in Bearna, Galway is hosting a wine dinner on Apr 26 featuring the wines of Château Minuty, Côtes de Provence. The evening begins with a reception and canapés at 7.30pm.

There follows a five-course dinner to complement the red, white and rosé wines of the Château which will be introduced by its proprietor, François Matton. Dinner is €70 per person, inclusive of wines, and those attending can spend the night at The Twelve and start the next day with breakfast for €40 more per person sharing. To book, phone [phone] or see www.thetwelvehotel.ie.

Faustino VII Rioja 2007, Widely available at about €10

You’re in safe hands with this, one of Ireland’s biggest sellers, and a rather good elegant, crisp red. There’s a lot of good ordinary Rioja around and this might inspire you to explore supermarkets’ own labels.

Chat-en-oeuf Blanc vin de pays 2010, Independents and Superquinn, around €8

French wine regions are used to ‘tribute acts’ from new world such as Goats do Roam (also imported by Gleeson Gilbey) but here’s one of their own, a French winery, cheekily playing with the Châteauneuf name. It’s a lovely fresh vibrant Rhône blend (grenache marsanne roussanne).

Lingenfelder Vineyard Creatures Hare Label Gewürztraminer Pfalz 2010, Independents, around €13

Along with its companion Bird Label riesling, this is an adorable, approachable white wine. The gewurz grape can be a bit OTT, but here it’s beautifully contained, with a cool touch of rich spice. Nicely contrasts with acute Trimbach 2009.

Marqués de Murrieta Reserva 2005, Independents, around €16

What’s that you say? These are the people who make Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva? Well put that roll of banknotes back in your pocket and tuck into this relatively modestly priced model instead. Spanish mid-priced reds can be awesome and this is no exception — an expressive spicy, rich yet light-framed red that’s ripe for pairing with roast lamb.

Trimbach Pinot Blanc 2009, Around €15 at independents

The pinot blanc grape has some case to make for being the king of what’s generally termed the ‘aromatic’ white wines (usually the term also refers to riesling and gewurz but I’d be inclined to include Loire chenin blanc).

Knappstein Riesling 8:8:18 2009 Clare Valley, Independents including Bradley’s North Main Street and O’Donovan’s off-licences, Cork, around €16

The numbers in that idiosyncratic name refer to the residual sugar, alcohol and total acidity respectively. In other words, it’s an off-dry riesling in the German style. Enjoy the crystal-clear fruit.