Weekend wine with Blake Creedon
The blend of love with intense stressing about keeping them on the straight and narrow just about sums up the attitude of grape growers and winemakers.
Pinot is one of the most awkward grapes, difficult to grow and sensitive to disease — but that the rewards, in terms of aroma and flavour, can be stunning.
Wine fans used to presume that pinot could only be grown properly in Bourgogne (Burgundy). Certainly, that French region produces some stunning, and stunningly-priced, wines.
But in the 1980s and 1990s producers in New Zealand began to make astounding wines from the grape, along the way helping to prove that the ‘new world’ could match the most highly-regarded wine lands of Europe.
Other regions have taken part in that revolution. But New Zealand has done it twice, with pinot and also with sauvignon blanc.
It’s not only about grapes.
Irish food and drinks producers might note how in the 1970s New Zealand researchers matched their climate with an obscure but potentially great fruit, the Chinese gooseberry, and built a multi-million dollar business from it, now rebranded as Kiwi fruit
* But back to the wine.
Here are some of the stand-out highlights from the recent New Zealand Wine Fair as well as one pinot from Chile. On blakecreedon.wordpress.com, I’m looking at some related matters, including a true rarity, an exceptional dessert wine from New Zealand.
* On Thursday, Feb 23, Hayfield Manor Wine Society presents a dinner paired with wines from the Santa Sofia winery in Italy. Executive chef Graeme Campbell and sommelière Sandra Biret-Crowley have matched each of the five courses to five wines. It begins with aperitifs at 7pm, and dinner is served from 7.30pm. The event costs €79 per person. Book on 021-4845909 or at events@hayfieldmanor.ie.
New Zealand producers caused a stir a few decades ago when we woke up to discover how well they could make pinot. But Cono Sur is arguably just as revolutionary, proving Chile can produce a well-defined, graceful affordable pinot. Also check out their more upmarket one for about €2 more.
One of the oldest estates in New Zealand, Bracott is also one of the biggest and most popular marques here in Ireland and with good reason: Their spicy and gently expressive pinot is deliciously accessible without being dumbed down.
Like their sauv blanc, Giesen’s perfumed, creamy pinot is one of the best value on the market. Imported by Greenlea (041-9870300) stockists of the Giesen range include Nationwide Wineonline, Cork O’Donovan’s; Dublin area Jus de Vine; Deveney’s; & Martins, Fairview; Londis, Yellow Walls Rd, Malahide; Gibney’s, Malahide; Savages Swords; Power & Smullen, Lucan and Hollands of Bray. &
Seifried Estate stakes its claim as one of the best value producers with this gorgeous juicy spicy pinot. Imported by Classic Drinks, (021-4510066), stockists include Cork Pinecroft, Grange; Matsons, Bandon; Mannings, Bantry. Dublin Hole in the Wall, D7; Tipp The Wine Cellar, Cashel; Waterford No 5 Off-Licence; Worldwide Wines.
Many producers excel at either whites or reds. And that’s grand. Each bottle on its own merits. But it’s doubly impressive to encounter a winery consistently excelling at both as is the case with ARA whose precise sauv blanc is accompanied by this fine dry, pinot with its mouthwatering, aromatic spicy earthiness.
This is an outstanding, bright fruit chiming beautifully against that mouth-watering whiff of meatiness you may find in a top-class pinot. Imported by Liberty Wines, stockists include www.thewineshop.ie; Cork Bradley’s; Dublin Fallon & Byrne; Unwined; Simply Wines; Jus De Vine; Andersons; Mortons; The Wine Boutique; Drinkstore; 64 Wine. Louth Callans; Wicklow The Parting Glass, Enniskerry; Waterford World Wide Wines.
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