Weekend wine with Blake Creedon

ON a recent visit to Fine Wines, I encountered two faces of Australian red wines: Rich, robust wines from Rutherglen, and exquisite upmarket numbers from the brilliantly inventive D’Arenberg winery.

All four feature bottles in the highlights below, along with two further ones well worth seeking out.

I’ve visited the d’Arenberg storyhere before, but Rutherglen, too, has an interesting story to tell. Confusingly, the Rutherglen winery shares a name with the wine region of Victoria in which it’s based, where grapes were first planted in the middle of the 19th century, making the region one of Australia’s oldest.

Although you’ll only rarely see the durif grape mentioned on labels (the best-known one is made by Nugan Estate, exclusive to SuperValu) it’s synonymous with Victoria where it was widely propagated due to its resistance to the disastrous mildew-related phylloxera plant disease. A cousin of petite sirah (most often associated with the US) it’s a grape well worth adding to your repertoire. For more about Fine Wines’ range, see www.blakecreedon.wordpress.com.

* Fine Wines has stores in the following locations. Clare: Mill Road & Roslevan Centre, Ennis. Cork: Blackpool Retail Park; Washington Street. Dublin: 514, South Circular Road, Rialto; Burnell Square, Malahide Road, D17. Galway: Westside. Kerry: Manor West, Tralee. Limerick: Roches Street; Parnell Street; Dooradoyle; Cosgraves Garage, Castletroy; Grove Island Centre, Corbally; High Road, Thomondgate; The Q Centre, Roxboro; Delta Retail Park; Kilmurry Roundabout, Castletroy. Tipperary: Showgrounds Shopping Court, Clonmel.

* You can also browse and buy from the Fine Wines selection online at www.finewines.ie. All deliveries (nationwide) of spirits or beers cost €4.95. Nationwide wine deliveries cost €4.95 if you’re buying fewer than a dozen, but is free for orders of 12 bottles or more.

Rutherglen Estates Durif 2006, Independent off-licences and Fine Wines, €7.99

This is a formidable high-power wine that’ll thank you for a few hours’ breathing — or else the quick fix of decanting it into a glass jug, to deliver a firm assertive red with delicious smoky liquorice.

Rutherglen Reunion GSM 2006, Independent off-licences and Fine Wines, €7.99

Like its stablemate above, Rutherglen’s mourvedre/syrah/ grenache blend is a big 14.5% monster, but has a more rounded profile, making it a candidate for roast lamb rather than the barbecue.

Cono Sur Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Independents, €12.99 and www.finewines.ie €9.85

Although best known for their outstanding (and great value) reserve pinot noir, the rest of Cono Sur’s range is well worth exploring. And this one’s no exception — a rich and dry fruity cabernet.

Marques De Monistrol NV Cava, Independent off-licences and Fine Wines, €11.99

For those who love good bubbly, Cava has gradually moved centre stage, all but supplanting prosecco and vying for our affection with the best Australian sparklers. Here’s one of the stars of Spanish Cava — a fresh and crisp chardonnay pinot noir brut.

d’Arenberg Stump Jump GSM 2008, Independent off-licences and Fine Wines, €12.90

In my view, the measure of a greatness in a winery is whether they can make top-class wine at the lower end of the price range. And while they’re best known for premium-priced wines, d’Arenberg prove their mettle with this super grenache/syrah/mourvedre blend at a easy-going price. My wine of the week.

d’Arenberg Footbolt Shiraz McLaren Vale 2006, Independent off-licences and Fine Wines, €17.99

This is simply outstanding. Although deceptively easy-drinking, it’s a truly serious wine, all sublime crisp, dark, red fruit atop layers of vanilla and spice — and that liquorice again.