Weekend wine with Blake Creedon
It probably won’t surprise you that it features some outstandingly good, and good value, wines.
But the sale is also a fascinating sign of the times, providing tangible evidence of the revolution that’s been taking place in the wine world — the seismic shift in power away from the supposedly ‘classic’ regions, towards areas whose ability to produce good wine has up to recently been doubted.
The focus of the promotion is on Spain, southern France, and Italy. Many wine areas in these countries offer some of the best value wines around (regular readers will know I keep recommending the provinces clustered around the Spanish-French border) and the sale includes some cracking quality from such areas. But it’s surprising how low Dunnes is going with some of the more high-end appellations.
I think all of today’s highlights (below) are great value but the Priorat, St Chinian and Cava are at particularly low prices for what you’re getting. Another good example of this high-end at a low price is Dunnes’ handy Albariño Dous (€9.99) from Rías Baixas in Galicia. Frankly, the reputation of that grape style is a biteen overwrought, especially as there are any number of good whites of broadly similar profile. But this is excellent at less than a tenner, with its gorgeous tang of unripe peach and its creamy texture.
There’s a solid range made by La Baume, all priced at €7.99 — a lusty, full-throated Viognier that’s as fresh as sea-spray; a straightforwardly rich merlot and, best of all, an intense, spicy cabernet sauvignon.
There are more — for instance the Burchino belongs to a quartet of terrific classy Italians, and there are further Spanish stars. For a round-up of these, plus a backstage peek at last week’s preview tasting session at Dunnes, drop over to my blog at www.blakecreedon.wordpress.com.
I’m especially sceptical of wines this age at this sort of price. Normally it means they’re completely knackered and are being flogged off cheaply. Not this sumptuous, lithe mature easy-drinking cabernet tempranillo garnacha blend. You might also like to try the more snappily crisp Marqués de Chivé Reserva Utiel-Requena DO also at €6.99.
We automatically associate cava, Spain’s traditional sparkling wine, with Catalunya, but there are recognised cava areas dotted all over the country including Valencia, where this hails from. This is a delightful sparkler by any international standards which makes great play of its chardonnay and macabeo blend.
The verdejo grape can be desperately boring, many displaying plenty of pleasant acidity, but only a homeopathic dose of flavour. This one I like a lot though — cool and fresh with mouth-watering red apple and pineapple. And I know this shouldn’t matter but... the bottle is also beautifully presented.
St Chinian, the home appellation of Laurent Miquel’s family, is also the birthplace of the grenache/syrah/mourvedre (or GSM) blend, only lately being recognised as a classic. In this bottle, the syrah is on a solo run, and it is outstanding — fresh, bright, spicy, brambly. You might also try the soft succulent Laurent Miquel Saga Pegot Faugères 2007 also €12.99.
The high-altitude Priorat appellation in the south of Catalunya has swiftly become one of the most highly-regarded destinations in Spain with prices to match — this elegant grenache cabernet carignan blend is a relatively modestly priced glimpse. And you might also like Torres Altos Ibericos Tempranillo Crianza 2008 at €10.99.
In general I prefer not to pick a “best in show” but if forced to at gunpoint, I’d probably pick this super Chianti. It has all the clarity and immediacy of the latest modern winemaking but the succulent plummy fruit spice and liquorice that feels like it’s been a millennium in the making. It’s utterly delicious.
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