Wine with Leslie: French recommendations as the home of wine convulses under austerity
A railway worker holds a smoke bomb in the Gare de Lyon train station, during the « Bloquons Tout » (Block Everything) protest movement in Paris, France, Wednesday, Sept. 10, 2025. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)
Wine was first made in the fertile crescent in Mesopotamia on the banks of the Tigris and Euphrates at the beginning of civilisation, and we have clay tablets that document it.Â
The oldest wineries we have found are in Armenia and Georgia (c.4000 BCE) and wine continues to be made in those countries (increasingly tasty wine too).
Yet most of us still consider France the mother country for modern wine, and rightly so.Â
It was in France that modern winemaking techniques were developed, and it is mainly French grape varieties that are found outside their native country, and it is still French wines that fetch the highest prices.
France is in political turmoil at the moment and wine sales continue to drop there (as they do worldwide).Â
With the 'Bloquons Tout' (block everything) protest movement manifest all over the nation (in wine regions as well as the cities), I thought I would give France a tiny dig-out and feature their wines this week.
While I happily drink wine from every country that makes it and write about them all, I confess that my wine cellar (cupboard) is rather dominated by French wines.Â
In part, this is because I’m a collector at heart (watches, shoes, pens, knives, anything really!).Â
I love that I can age a decent Bordeaux for 30 years, a good Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé for six or ten, and a good Saint Chinian for a dozen or so (e.g. Laurent Miquel’s Cazal Viel, in Dunnes Stores for €10 as I write).
Suggestions this week are wines I consider a bargain in their category. Two from the Languedoc and a Beaujolais Cru making its debut.Â
You don’t see many on Irish shelves from Juliénas, perhaps because it is harder to pronounce than it’s neighbours Fleurie, Morgon and Brouily.Â
This is the new vintage of Cóte 128 sourced from a sustainably farmed single vineyard in the Languedoc (‘pech’ is occitan for hillside).Â
Grapes are night harvested to preserve aromas and part aged in oak.Â
Peaches and white flower aromas with tropical fruit notes (pineapple, guava etc), fruity and ripe but with balancing lemony freshness. Bargain.
The Fabre range is imported by Matson’s and thus exclusive to their three shops.Â
The wines are consistent and fruit-focused.Â
Last year I recommended Château de Luc, which is the same price as this wine, but this is a little softer with a rounded almost lush palate; raspberry-strawberry fruits, weight and ripe plum and berry fruits and a touch of spice.
Juliénas is not as famous as Morgon or Fleurie but deserves its cru status.Â
This estate is owned by Michel Chapoutier and the ‘capitans’ lieu dit is probably the best in the appellation.
Black cherry and dark plum aromas, liquorice and black wine gum flavours, ripe and full and with good length.Â
Also watch for Trenel Pouilly Vinzelles white.
Ireland has a new spirit category, Apple Brandy, and Stonewell Cider’s contribution is ‘Orr’ made from proper cider apples and aged for up to 4 years in Sherry, Burgundy and virgin oak casks.
A yellow gold hue, aromas of sweet apple and vanilla, caramelised apple and nutty toffee flavours with a peppery finish. Stunningly good.
