The Menu: I ignored the warning tingle of a food allergy — soon I was waiting for an ambulance

I am now in deep mourning for the permanent loss of aubergines

The last aubergine that food writer Joe McNamee will have ever eaten.

Recently, I headed into town on a ‘fat-finding’ mission, culinary cousin of the fact-finding mission, that has me seeking out wonderful new ways to pile on the pounds. In one favourite venue, a selection of divine dishes included roasted aubergine slice, rolled and stuffed with cream cheese and walnut.

Aubergine has long been one of my most favourite foods, first discovered decades ago upon moving abroad when it was still largely unknown on these shores. I didn’t even have a recipe the first time I cooked it, inventing a dish that soaked up half a pint of olive oil yet still tasted delicious. I became a lifelong aubergine acolyte.