Seafood Made Simple: I wanted to do a take on this lox bagel at Goldie

Whip up a whopper smoked mackerel pate bagel. Picture: Chani Anderson

The lox bagel is perhaps the most iconic seafood sandwich. It’s the quintessential breakfast for New Yorkers on the go — a smoked salmon and cream cheese filled bagel. Sometimes with the addition of sliced raw red onion and a sprinkle of briny capers.

I wanted to do a take on this dish at Goldie. Often relying on what’s familiar and comfortable to balance what can sometimes be lesser known or challenging.

Reference points like these have been key for us on our quest to make seafood a little more accessible.

With wild salmon in such short supply, smoked mackerel makes for a winning substitution. A fish with an unfortunately bad reputation for being ‘fishy’, when prepared like this — spanking fresh and preserved by way of salt and smoke— it takes this humble fish to another galaxy of deliciousness.

Instead of a doughy bagel we piped rounds of choux pastry, covered in the signature everything spice — a seasoning made of sea salt flakes, sesame and poppy seeds, a touch of garlic and onion powder.

As an alternative to the usual cream cheese, we decided to use a strained sheep’s yogurt for that typical lactic hit to fill our bagel-shaped choux. Aisling and Michael Flanagan’s Velvet Cloud farm, just outside Claremorris in Co Mayo, is producing some of the very finest sheep’s milk products in the country.

Perfectly diced beetroots are pickled, their trim combined with apple, vinegar and sugar to produce a piquant beetroot and apple ketchup. Little dabs of this adorn the lid.

So, this weekend I’m sharing the most vital components for that dish, namely my smoked mackerel pâté and pickled beetroot recipes. Armed with these, you could whip up a whopper bagel like I have here, make a simple salad or serve with some soda bread for a light supper.

Smoked Mackerel Pâté with Pickled Beetroot

recipe by:Aishling Moore

With wild salmon in such short supply, smoked mackerel makes for a winning substitution

Servings

4

Preparation Time

 20 mins

Cooking Time

 15 mins

Total Time

 35 mins

Course

 Main

Ingredients

• For the pâté (Makes 250g)

• 1 whole smoked mackerel or 2 smoked mackerel fillets

• 100g mayonnaise

• 60g crème fraîche

• 1 lemon zest and juice

• 2 tbsp parsley, chopped

• 1 tbsp dill chopped

• ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

• ½ tsp sea salt

• For the pickled beetroot

• 750g beetroot (or 3 large beetroots)

• 400ml apple cider vinegar

• 350g caster sugar

• 400ml water

• 1 tsp coriander seeds

• 1 tsp black peppercorns

• 1 pinch fine sea salt

Method

1. If using a whole mackerel, place the smoked fish on a chopping board with the cavity of the fish facing you.

2. Detach the head and pull working from the head down to the tail to remove the main frame of the fish at the same time.

3. Separate the two fillets and slowly flake the fish away from the mackerel skin. Do so carefully to avoid bones.

4. Place the picked flakes of the smoked fish in a small mixing bowl and set aside. In another small bowl, add the mayonnaise, crème fraîche, lemon zest and chopped herbs. Mix well to combine.

5. Add the mackerel and fold through. It is important not to overmix at this point, you want to have nice chunky flakes of smoked mackerel running through the pâté. Add the black pepper and sea salt and taste.

6. This pâté keeps in the fridge for 3 days and can be made in advance.

7. To make the pickled beetroot

8. First wash and peel the beetroot.

9. Using a sharp knife or a mandolin, slice the beetroots into 5mm thick rounds.Set aside.

10. In a medium, heavy-based saucepan place the sugar, apple cider vinegar, water, sugar, black pepper, coriander seed and salt.

11. Place on a medium high heat and bring to the boil to dissolve the sugar.

12. Once dissolved lower the heat and add the sliced beetroot.

13. Cook for 10- 12 minutes until the beetroot is cooked.

14. Allow to cool slightly before packing in sterile jam jars and store in the refrigerator once cooled.

Fish tales

This method of pickling works great with any root vegetables that require cooking. Swap beets for carrots, celeriac or swede.

When working with beetroot, it’s always great to have a pair of gloves to prevent your hands being stained a deep purple.

I’ve used apple cider vinegar, but you could use rice, red or white wine vinegar.

Smoked mackerel is brined in a salt solution before being hot-smoked, so it’s a cooked ready to eat product.

It is important to follow the bone structure of the mackerel when flaking to avoid bones.

If you can’t get fresh hot-smoked mackerel, you could swap for some tinned mackerel for the pâté.

I’ve used parsley and dill here, but chives and chervil would also work well.