Wine with Leslie: The good, bad and ugly of drink — and your health
Pic: iStock
“Is wine good or bad for you? Yes.”
This is the title of an August 2024 article in Harvard Public Health written by Professor of Medicine at Harvard Kenneth Mukamal and Erick B. Rimm Professor of Nutrition and Epidemiology, also at Harvard.
The authors state that even modest alcohol consumption likely raises the risk for certain diseases (and heavy drinking is certainly damaging to health), “but after countless studies, the data does not justify sweeping statements about the effects of moderate alcohol consumption on health.”
This is in stark contrast to the massively publicised WHO Lancet article from 2023 which stated that no level of alcohol consumption is safe.
Several studies have shown that moderate drinking “in a recommended pattern, correlates with lower mortality risk”, the Harvard article says.
The Harvard profs also accuse the WHO report of “cherry picking” research and that more high quality evidence is needed — “we need the media to treat the subject with nuance.”
This Harvard article is one of many that have pushed back on the 2023 WHO report - it has also emerged that some authors of studies suggesting alcohol is unhealthy have received money from anti-alcohol organisations.
The WHO itself is being advised by anti-alcohol groups like Movendi International who helped get Prohibition in 1920 (cf. Felicity Carter in WineBusiness.com, April 2024).
For a good summary of the topic I recommend a recent WineBlast podcast on the subject where the presenters interview researchers and Laura Catena.
Catena is a much lauded winemaker and a practising doctor who has looked deep into the subject.
Similarly Konstantin Baum MW gave an excellent summary on his YouTube channel on November 10 last. Baum’s channel is worth a follow, his videos are informative and accurate.
Recommendations this week are for red wines that might be beneficial to health, just don’t quote me!
Tannic wine is thought to be the healthiest thanks to antioxidant levels, and Bordeaux is the place to start.
This is from Lussac near Saint-Émilion and reduced from €30. Bright bramble fruits with a touch of cedar — fruity and ripe, elegant and textured.
One of many excellent Bordeaux offers in O’Briens this month (e.g. Ch. Langoa-Barton 2019 for €55)
Laura Catena believes her rich red wines have the power to heal, they bring joy and ensure we eat slowly and they encourage conversation.
From vineyards 1000m above sea level this pours a deep dark red with lots of mineral tinged red and black fruit aromas and flavours with a gorgeous spicy kick.
The ‘French Paradox’ study claimed residents of the Gers ate lots of fats but had less had heart disease because they drank lots of Tannat based wines (e.g. Madiran).
Madiran can be excellent but is difficult to find - try this instead. Dark purple-red colour, soft black fruit aromas and lingering blackberry and blackcurrants, elegant and complex.
This is perfectly designed to cheer up dark January. Brewed with Amarillo and Vic Secret hops which add fragrance and complexity and with oats and wheat malts to add texture and mouthfeel.
Orange peel and grapefruit aromas, crisp and juicy with pleasing bitter orange peel and hop flavours. Delicious.
