Wine with Leslie: Toast the New Year with time-tested Champagne
Pic: iStock
If in doubt, serve Champagne. This has always been my philosophy as Champagne matches everything from fish and chips to trout mousseline to strawberries and cream.
Moët & Chandon is by far the most dominant name in Champagne, and I was lucky enough to visit them in Épernay earlier this year for the launch of their 2016 vintage.
As a consequence I inevitably drank several glasses of Brut Impérial, the classic non-vintage Môet everyone reading this has tasted many times.
I confess this is not a Champagne I generally choose but following this visit I concluded that it is tasting better than ever these days, riper and fuller than just a few years ago.
Stepping up to vintage level marks a noticeable uptick in quality however, and there is no denying the seductive power of the brand.
The 2016 vintage was troublesome enough with excessive rain and then frost in the spring followed by a dry summer which reduced quantities. By harvest time however the vines had settled nicely and quality turned out to be very good.
The 2016 has more Chardonnay than usual (48%) with 34% Pinot Noir and of course some Meunier. A lowish dosage was added of 6 grams per litre and the wine was matured for seven years before disgorgement this year.
The trend in Champagne is towards lower ‘dosage’ (the sugar added at the end), and many Grower Champagnes use zero.
I have to admit I like this trend and I recommend you seek out grower Champagne (where the vigneron grows the grapes and makes the wine) to compare with the big boys. They cost more but can be fascinating.
A visit to a good wine bar with friends to learn more should be a 2025 New Year’s Resolution (try MacCurtain Wine Cellar, L’Atitude 51, Bar Pez or Green Man Wines).
Too many Cava add a heavy dosage of up to 10g of sugar per litre which makes them far too sweet for my palate. This estate uses zero sugar at bottling and you don’t miss it.
Lemon drop and lemon zest aromas, pear and ripe apple flavours, textured and characterful, lingering and complex.
Ayala is the sister house to Bollinger and is Chardonnay focused (Bollinger is a Pinot house). Chef de Cave Caroline Latrive makes elegant sophisticated wines and I’ve long been a fan.
This has classic floral, brioche aromas, a fine mousse and a properly satiny creamy palate. The rosé is also delicious.
There is a noticeable jump in quality from standard Môet Brut Impérial to their Grand Vintage which is only released in good years.
This is their 77th vintage release (since 1743) and is noticeably riper than previous vintages.
Soft, yeasty, baked bread aromas with apple confit — ripe pear flavours, dry and complex with lingering almond notes.
The boys are back! Cam and Scott bought back their brewery from Irish Distillers earlier this year, and their beers are as good as ever.
This was created to showcase Citra hops and it does so admirably.
Citrus and floral aromas, juicy and crisp with a good hit of bitterness to balance it all.
