Wine with Leslie: Is the French wine crisis a sign of things to come?
Pic: iStock
Is French wine in crisis? Dozens of news stories in the general and trade media over the last year suggest that it is.
French consumption has dropped by 70% over the last 60 years and a combination of rising costs, climate change and a drop in exports have all contributed.
Inevitably there have been protests from French winegrowers, venting their frustration by dumping manure and lighting fires in front of town halls.
I love that the French stand up for their rights but some have taken it a little too far.
The militant vigneron organisation Comité d’Action Viticole (CAV) is frequently behind the more publicised attacks, hijacking trucks importing Spanish wines and in January this year they blew up a government office in Carcassonne, thankfully nobody was injured.
In Bordeaux, at least a third of producers are in financial difficulty, the government is offering to pay vignerons to rip up vines and convert to other forms of agriculture, as well as paying for excess wine to be converted to industrial alcohol.
The larger context is that worldwide consumption is also trending downwards due to lifestyle changes, competition from spirits beer and cocktails, economic conditions generally and of course relentless negativity from the World Health Organisation and governments, especially Ireland.
So let’s begin the fight back. Wine is a civilising and civilised drink, particularly when consumed with dinner. Let’s encourage our children and our friends by serving it at mealtimes, let’s make it a part of daily life.
I confess that I allowed my son to taste sips occasionally and he is now, aged 24, a committed wine lover while also liking craft beer and cocktails.
France remains the mother country when it comes to wine, and they need our support, so selections this week are from SE France, all properly tasty and excellent value.
This is part of O’Brien’s September sale and is reduced from €19. Note there is also good value in fizz and elsewhere in the sale.
Begude is a family owned organic estate with solid quality across all their wines.
This Chardonnay has layers of soft apple and pear fruits that hit the palate with textured exuberance balanced by stony freshness. A treat.
The Fabre range is imported by Matson’s and exclusive to their three shops.
A fine example of what the Languedoc does best —ripe plum and red berry fruits with a touch of spice and a lush soft palate.
The Fabre ‘Lux’ with zero sulphur is a Euro more and even softer but awaiting new stock.
Les Deux Cols is run by a trio of Irish guys and I’ve long been a fan. A snazzy new label and now 50-50 Grenache-Syrah (formerly 100% Grenache) this is even better than before.
Dark plum and blackberry fruit aromas, cooked plums and prune touches, supple, soft and fruit driven.
As fans will know by now Dingle Distillery are following the ancient Celtic calendar and releasing new whiskies to match the seasons.
This edition release honours the Celtic celebration of Cónocht an Fómhair which falls between Lughnasa and Samhain.
Aged in ex-Bourbon casks with a rum finish, aromas of honeycomb, spiced rum, mint and caramel notes.
Beautifully creamy and soft on the palate with baked honey and almond notes and a solid prickle of spice and white pepper on the finish. Balanced, complex and very tasty.
