Restaurant review: Harrow in Killarney has a solid food offering and knows its customers well

I’d happily return but I’d be back even faster if John O’Leary were to add more of the thoughtful culinary innovation which I thoroughly enjoyed in the Yew Tree

The food in Harrow is rock solid, good produce, well cooked

Killarney is the Klondike of Irish tourism, the source of the original motherlode first prospected over 250 years ago and still being mined to this day to great effect: with 1.1m visitors passing through each year, tourism is worth around €400m annually to the town.

Yet, bizarrely, despite a seemingly infinite capacity for hosting visitors, the quality of food served up to the table has been often far less inspiring, even as the culinary offering elsewhere in the country accelerated ever upwards, even into the Michelin stratosphere.