Wine with Leslie: A selection of wines from South Africa’s two best-known grapes
Selections this week are fine examples from South Africa’s two best-known grapes — Pinotage and Chenin Blanc.
Like many Irish people I have always felt a kinship to the people of South Africa, most likely formed by those anti-apartheid marches I went on in the 1980’s and 1990’s. I root for them in rugby and cricket (except when playing Ireland), and I regularly turn to Miriam Makeba for aural therapy as she can soothe any ill with that angelic voice.
My relationship with South African wine has been a little bumpier as much of what arrived here after the lifting of sanctions was patchy and rather rustic. But things have changed immeasurably in the last 15 years and I now look forward to tastings involving their wines.
A whole breed of new young winemakers has emerged and many of the old guard have upped their game. There are far more women winemakers these days (always a good thing in my experience), old vines are being rediscovered, and there is a vibrancy and buzz about the country’s wines that I am delighted to see.
Watch for producers like Hamilton Russell, Sadie, almost everything from Swartland and have a look at the range at KinnegarWines.com. The magical creations of Pieter Walser of Blank Bottle continue to charm (try his Moment of Silence), and at the commercial level Fairview and Delheim are recommended.
Selections this week are fine examples from South Africa’s two best-known grapes — Pinotage and Chenin Blanc. The Connemara Wine & Design people have introduced some new South African wines to their catalogue and I recommend Kanu below. I also tasted their Joubert-Tradauw Cabernet Franc Reserve 2017 (€56) which was savoury and complex and capable of further ageing.
Also this week I’m recommending a wine from McFarlane, a new producer to me, imported by Eamon Fitzgerald of WineSpark (a man with an impeccable palate).
One of a bunch of new SA wines imported by Connemara Wine & Design. Proper old-school Chenin capable of ageing. Tropical fruit aromas mingle with grapefruit and citrus and on the palate, this is richly textured but with beautiful tension and balance between tangy fruits and crisp acidity. Rich chocolaty Kanu Pinotage also recommended.
For a solid introduction to South African wines it is hard to fault Delheim, family owned and consistently tasty across the range. This pours a light pale pink with strawberries and raspberries on the nose with bonus floral notes. Fruity and juicy with more red fruits on the palate and a pleasing dried berry tartness on the finish.
Winemaker (Ms) Alex McFarlane has taken an atypical approach to Pinotage from cool climate Walker Bay, aiming for elegance over power. Red and dark berry fruit aromas with good weight and structure, but with a lighter touch on the palate including vibrant cherry fruits and tangy notes of dried plums on the finish. (normally €48).
This is ‘Siofra’ the 2nd batch of Tipperary Distillery’s Fairy Tree Gin which has been given a revamp. Distilled on the family farm at Ballindoney in Clonmel from barley grown on the farm, this includes dried Hawthorn leaves — and don’t worry the local fairies get a share of each batch as compensation for the disturbing the trees.
Pleasingly fresh with classic juniper aromas mixed with hazelnut and green fruits — textured and crisp with spice on the mid-palate and lingering green apple notes. Excellent.
