Wine with Leslie: A pilgrimage to Nicholson's wine shop in Co Down
James Nicholson, Co Down wine curator
I’ve been on a pilgrimage. Not to Lough Derg or anywhere religious but I did have a sense of reverence as I checked out the shelves of James Nicholson’s beautiful wine shop in Crossgar in County Down, around 25 km south of Belfast.
I haven’t featured a Clare Valley Riesling in a while but I couldn’t omit this old favourite.
Candied apple and lime aromas mixed with washed stones and citrus — fuller and rounder on the palate than expected with sweet-tart apple flavours, a pleasing fruit-focused roundness balanced by pristine acidity. Delicious.
From uber fashionable Swartland this is a peppery-spicy-juicy blend of Shiraz, Grenache, and Cinsault.
Generous and supple on the attack, darker fruits come through on the mid-palate with a touch of chocolate, and dark berry fruits dominate the finish with spice and structure balancing out the finish.
From one of the Loire Valley’s best producers and made from 100% Cabernet Franc near the pretty village of Saumur.
Cherry fruit aromas with a touch of graphite and blackcurrant leaf — flavours of pomegranate and wild strawberry, supple and fruity with a balancing lively tartness and a dried berry finish.
Made by the Ghosn family in Lebanon in partnership with Vieux Telegraph in Châteauneuf and Dominque Hebrad from St. Emilion.
A blend of Cinsault and Grenache with a touch of Syrah and Tempranillo — savoury and layered with mature fruits and garrigue herb aromas, ripe berry fruit flavours, supple, juicy and pleasing.
I tasted this in Nicholsons and then a week later at the EuroToques Food awards where it was a surprisingly good match for Sham Hanifa’s Goat Rendang.
A blend of Grenache & Cinsault with floral (violet?) aromas, red fruits and citrus — pink grapefruit and raspberry fruit flavours and a crisp tangy finish.
I’ve mentioned this before but I don’t think I’ve given a full slot. Recent winner of a prestigious award from the Euro-Toques Chefs organisation, many of whom use it in sauces and sell it in their restaurants.
Killahora was in good company, with other winners including Wildwood Balsamics and Skeaghanore Duck.
Made from rare varieties of bitter-sweet apples mostly grown on the south-facing slopes of the Killahora Orchards in Cork.
The must from pressed frozen apples is fermented for 12 months and produces an intensely rich wine with floral scents and honeyed sweet fruit flavours (strawberry, baked apple, candied angelica). Serve with fruit desserts, cheese or pâté.
