The Menu: The magic of Levis' of Ballydehob

Plus: Farm-box veggies from Green Earth Organics in Co Galway

Sat, 15 Jul, 2023 - 02:00

Joe McNamee

Michelin magic at Levis

Writing recently in this esteemed organ about al fresco dining in Cork and Munster, The Menu especially hymned the praises of his most favourite pub in the world, Levis in Ballydehob, in West Cork, which, while it may not operate its own commercial kitchen, manages to partner with superb food operations throughout the summer to provide an offering that would put many permanent hospitality venues to shame, most recently featuring excellent fare from the ever wonderful Caitlin Ruth, cooking from her food truck to the rear of the garden.

But certainly the highlight of this and many another summer will be a most incredible Michelin-starred pop-up food and wine event (July 23/24) that sees the sublimely talented Takashi Miyazaki of one-starred Ichigo Ichie in Cork join forces with Rob Krawczyk of one-starred Restaurant Chestnut, less than 50m away from Levis in Ballydehob for a very special series of dinners with natural wine pairings from Ireland’s finest natural wine importers, Le Caveau.

With a set menu at just €50, with wine pairing at €20, it has to be one of the bargains of the year. Three sittings (6pm/7pm/8pm) on each night. Booking by email only.

levisoutback@gmail.com

Keith Boyle, the Michelin-recommended chef, joins forces with Anthony Smith, the esteemed GM of Kilkenny River Court Hotel.

Boyle at Bridge House

Hearty congratulations to the newly revamped and historic Bridge House at the Kilkenny River Court Hotel which has been restored to former glory after a €2m investment and making the leap from one lovingly restored heritage home to another to man the kitchen is the very talented chef Keith Boyle, who leaves the Lady Anne Restaurant in Castlecomer, to take over this sublimely located boutique beauty, sporting 12 bedrooms, a fine parlour overlooking Kilkenny Castle, and a delightful dining room, which will be overseen by Keith’s wife, Carmel.

The Menu looks forward to visiting after it opens to the public on July 28 as it has been a while since he last drew up a pew to savour the flavour on show from this gifted duo.

rivercourthotel.com/The-Bridge-House.html

A little bit of the bubbly at Shelbourne

Shelbourne champers

The Menu is always fond of popping into the Shelbourne Hotel for a jorum whenever up in Dublin and it is one of his most favourite places of all to stay but the next time he heads up to the big smoke and heads for the venerable old establishment it will be for a drop of bubbly on The Champagne Terrace at The Shelbourne, a collaboration with Moët & Chandon, that is lasting right through till September, in a delightful outdoor space in the heart of the hotel surrounded by a wonderful floral installation and with a fine seafood menu, heavy on the oysters, to complement the bubbles on offer and a clatter of champagne cocktails to add further zing to the occasion.

theshelbourne.com

Today’s special

As The Menu has repeatedly said through the years, he is truly blessed to live in Cork, the breadbasket of Ireland and surrounded by many superb, small, independent growers, in independent food shops and farmers’ markets, so the notion of ordering produce online seems counterintuitive, even if it is a superb 100% Organic Irish Farm Box from Green Earth Organics, in Co Galway.

Though he may be well provided for in his own locality, The Menu recalls the numerous occasions he has travelled around the country and encountered ‘food deserts’ when it comes to sourcing produce of this calibre, where the only source is one of the big multiples and, not especially good on Irish produce in the first place, they never ever stock local, seasonal Irish organic fare of this calibre.

Kenneth and Jenny Keavey’s third generation 100% certified organic farm produces quite excellent fresh, seasonal Irish produce and top up their boxes by sourcing from other fine organic growers around the country, and if The Menu were based in Galway, he would be delighted to become a regular consumer of same.

But the Keaveys have other reasons for promoting their nationwide delivery service. With so many people heading off on holidays around this time, the Green Earth growers can be left with a glut of produce at the height of the season— half a tonne, 4,000 bags of salad leaves, alone from June to the end of August — so they’ve launched a Save our Summer plea to persuade Irish consumers to continue to shop local, even if it is not for their own specific produce, and to make the point that much of this glut will end up as food waste if not used. In addition, you are supporting local communities and employment; for example, Green Earth employ up to 40 part-time and full-time workers during the high season.

So, if staycationing in Ireland, what better way to kick off your arrival in a new location when preparing to kick up your heels in an unfamiliar part of the country for a week or two than to have the pain of trying to source produce of this calibre entirely removed by arriving to find a delivery on your doorstep.

They offer a range of boxes — and The Menu can guarantee it is produce of the highest order, all packaging fully compostable or recyclable — and there is a 20% discount offer (code: NEW20) for new customers of their nationwide delivery service along with other loyalty programmes. There is also a Rescue Corner retailing ‘imperfect produce’, perfectly edible but with slight blemishes, at significantly reduced prices. To top it all, those going on holidays abroad can continue to support Irish local growers and farmers, prevent food waste and support those less well off by ordering a Charity Donation Food Box (€30) for delivery to Green Earth’s charity partners, St Vincent De Paul.