Restaurant Review: Date night is sorted at Sandymount's Crudo

The interior of Sandymount's 'Crudo'.

• Crudo
• Address: 11 Seafort Avenue, Sandymount, Dublin 4. 
• Tel: [phone]
• Web: crudosandymount.com
• How To: Sunday - Thursday: 10am - 9pm; Friday - Saturday: 10am - 10pm
• Tab: Dinner for two including snacks, starters, mains, and dessert plus a bottle of wine and two Grappa digestif to finish cost a reasonable €150

THE Dublin suburb of Sandymount has always made me think of romance and of the cycle of life. 

The Engineer grew up on Newbridge Avenue and I had many a joyful meal there cooked by her mam when I first courted her. 

Newbridge Avenue also features Ulysses as it is from there Paddy Dignam’s funeral cortege begins its journey to Glasnevin Cemetery, and of course, both Stephen and Bloom go for walks on Sandymount Strand and think about life, death, sex, and romance.

Sandymount Green was bathed in sunshine when I got off my bus and I was pleased to see there was at least one courting couple on a bench. 

My guest was an old friend and mentor who lives nearby, and one of my favourite dining companions, such are his legion of stories and deep culinary knowledge.

Crudo is the creation of friends Jamie McCarthy and Sean Crescenzi, the latter a scion of the Dunne and Crescenzi family, whose various restaurants have been reviewed positively here. 

Earlier this year they won the Restaurants Association Best Casual Dining in Ireland Award, and they are open daily as a cafe, wine bar, and restaurant — exactly the kind of venue every neighbourhood craves.

We began with some spuntini (snacks) — bright juicy and lightly tart Cerignola olives and a generous plate of thinly sliced coppa di Parma (€5 each). The fruity olives and the intensely flavoured salty-sweet air-dried coppa sparking off each other nicely.

Calamari

Next came large chunks of calamari in a black pepper and semolina crust with a harissa aioli for dipping (€12). 

The dramatic contrast between the brittle crisp exterior and tender juicy flesh of the squid made this one of our favourite dishes of the evening, who knew that deep-fried calamari could be this good?

My guest’s gambas prawns (€15) were also nigh on perfect — several sweet prawns (properly deveined) in a lush garlic, nduja, and mint butter with touches of spiky chilli heat, roasted baby tomatoes, and on the side some chunks of fluffy light toasted focaccia to mop up all the juices.

Spinach & Sheep's Ricotta Ravioli

House-made ravioli with spinach and sheep’s ricotta (€20) came in a delightful basil and lemon butter sauce with pine nuts and herb oil with bonus grated Cáis na Tíre cheese on top. 

I particularly liked the texture of the ravioli (and my guest’s pappardelle) which managed to be silky but with a touch of firmness, the very definition of al-dente.

The wine list is a single page and contains around 35 wines including good examples of rosé and fizz. 

Prices begin at just €30 and there are options by the glass and at 500ml — further proof that it can be done, and that many restaurants are gouging us on wine prices. 

The emphasis is Italian as you would expect, but there are also a couple of German, French, and Spanish options. 

Our bottle of organic Vitese Grillo from Sicily cost €36 and proved to be the perfect wine for the warm summer evening and to match our food. 

Fragrant and floral with ripe yellow peach notes and with just enough citrus acidity to refresh the palate and to cut through the buttery richness of the ravioli sauce and the crisp coating on the calamari.

For dessert, my guest ordered an affogato (€8), plus a shot of grappa, while I ordered Crudo’s signature dark chocolate tart with flakes of sea salt and fruity olive oil (€8), and my own shot of aged Grappa to wash it down. 

Our charming efficient server had recommended the tart as unmissable and she was correct — dense and rich and made with high percentage cocoa chocolate, the scattering of flakes of sea salt and the drizzle of fruity olive oil adding a touch of lightness to balance the intensity of the chocolate.

We left with smiles on our faces contemplating the joys of good food and wine paired with convivial company. May I recommend you take your loved one for a walk on Sandymount Strand before taking them to Crudo — you are guaranteed at least a snog.

The Verdict:

• Food: 9/10
• Drink: 8/10
• Service: 9/10
• Ambiance: 8/10
• Value: 8.5/10
• In a Sentence: Creative and tasty food in a casual setting, Sandymount is lucky to have Crudo.