Restaurant review: Row Wines is a front-row seat to quality

"Row Wines is a winebar rather than a restaurant but feels like it is in the exact same place as Coppinger Row restaurant emotionally, if not physically — it is actually next door."

The interior of Row Wines, Dublin

• Row Wines, Coppinger Row, Dublin 2
• bereenbrothers.com/row
• Instagram: @rowwines
• How To: Tues-Thursday: 5pm-11pm;  Fri-Saturday: 5pm-1am; Sunday: 1pm-1am; Monday: Closed
• The Tab: Lunch for 3 including snacks and several small plates plus 2 cocktails and 6 glasses of wine cost a reasonable €174.50

When Coppinger Row Restaurant closed on New Year’s Eve 2021, there was much weeping and gnashing of teeth (to paraphrase the Gospel According to St. Matthew). 

Created by brothers Marc and Conor Bereen at the tail-end of the boom years, Coppinger Row somehow managed to keep the party going and remained one of Dublin’s busiest and trendiest restaurants all through the recovery years — until their landlord got a better offer and turfed them out.

Row Wines is a winebar rather than a restaurant but feels like it is in the exact same place emotionally if not physically — it is actually next door to the old restaurant. 

There are seats for 40 inside and 40 outside and with the noisy chatter from the young things at budget cocktail bar Pygmalion just opposite, and from the older crowd outside Grogan’s Pub, I can see Row being just as busy and buzzy as its forebear.

On Father’s Day Saturday, myself, the Engineer and the Physicist visited for lunch and found the space and staff relaxed and welcoming. 

Chef Paddy Maher

Chef Paddy Maher and Exec Chef Dan Hannigan (of Orwell Road fame) have focused on snacks and creative small plates and it works.

Toasted sourdough (€4) with an olive oil balsamic dip, marinated olives (€5) and Padron peppers (€6) were all solid quality, but the meal began properly with the arrival of herbed flatbread with Coolea Cheese (€9.50).

The intensely herbal crusty bread was designed to be dipped in a ‘fondue’ of Coolea and I’m only glad there wasn’t a spoon or I would have eaten it like soup.

Marinated fruity beetroot (€9) sat on tangy labneh while some za’atar added lift, while Andarl Pork and beef polpettes (€13) were meaty and almost lush. 

Kilkee Crab on Rosti Potato

Next came mounds of Kilkee Crab (€16) sitting prettily on cubes of Rösti potato — the salty crusty potato offering good game against the almost fruity sweet dressed crab.

Lamb belly is underrated and underused in Irish restaurants and Row’s take on it was my favourite dish of the meal. 

Lamb belly (€14) rolled and roasted with the sweet meaty lamb and its glorious crispy crackling crust coated in Velvet Cloud yoghurt sauce with garlic and chilli that cut nicely through any fat.

As you would hope for in a wine bar these days, there is a strong focus on organic and sustainable wines. 

There are Pét-Nats, orange wines and zero and low-sulphur wines but there are also lots that would fit on any reasonably adventurous list including wines from the Mandrarossa Co-Op in Sicily, Ch. Ksara in Lebanon and an excellent Petite Arvine from Switzerland.

The Engineer and the Physicist ordered cocktails to begin — a chocolatey Espresso Martini and a crisp Clarified Margarita (€13 each) and both managed to taste fairly classic but also creative. 

I was also pleased to see a vermouth list including Valentia Vermouth and a selection of spritzes.

I stuck to the wine — the highlight perhaps being an organic natural old vine Pais Rosé called ‘I No Es Pituko!’ from the Curicó Valley. 

This wine is exclusive to Row Wines and a great find — textured and lively with creamy red fruit flavours and balancing acidity and fairly priced at €8.50.

Row Wines' wine bar area

A skin contact Sauvignon Blanc from the same producer was a little less successful but the Physicist felt it worked well with his food while a minimum intervention Austrian Zweigelt was juicy and fruit-focused.

There is just one dessert — olive oil cake (€9) topped with creamy mascarpone for extra richness as roasted grapes added fruity freshness and some acidity.

Finally a word about the mood music which comes from a vinyl-only sound system and managed not to annoy me once, a rare feat. 

Soul, reggae and funk were on the menu for our visit and there is frequently a DJ in situ I believe.

Row Wines is not just a good replacement for Coppinger Row — I think it is an improvement and is certainly a great addition to this part of the city.

Row Wines - The Verdict:

• Food: 8.5/10
• Wine: 9/10
• Service: 9/10
• Ambiance: 9/10
• Value: 8.5/10
• In a Sentence: Row Wines is serving tasty wines and creative food, and is a great new addition.